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Routes in The Bookmark

37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backflip T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bellyflop T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Between The Sheets T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bookmark OW T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cave Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coleman's Complex T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of No Return T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dead in Bed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Side T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fantasy Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Goose, The T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inside Straight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Joy and Tribulation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Klingon (with direct start) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Manhole Cover T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marginal Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Original Fantasy Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Penis Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plan A T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rhythm Method T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Romulan Territory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Screamin' Eagles S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Seams Like A Dream T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skid You Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sojourn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Son of a Pitch T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Star Trek T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Time Machine T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Twiggy's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Virgin Spring T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wigglin' Fingies T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 65 ft
FA: Celin Serbo and Kerry Cowan, 2002.
Page Views: 1,274 total, 11/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 23, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This fine route starts to the left of Virgin Springs and finishes at the Melvin's Wheel anchors on P1. The pitch starts with a gently committing seam with hard to place gear, until the 15ft level. Place a green Alien or two and follow 5 bolts on the face to the left. This climb is slightly easier than Bellyflop, but the climbing is more continuous. The face climbing is very enjoyable and goes on small edges. Almost three stars....

Location

It is located directly below the Melvin's Wheel anchors on p1. You can either scramble some low fifth class rock from the start of Backflip to the base, or rap in from Mevlin's Wheel.

Protection

Gear to #0.5 Camalot.

Photos

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Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.10c PG13
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.10c PG13
As another who doesn't excel at thin face climbing, this felt pretty challenging for the grade. I have seldom appreciated a big jug hold more. But very fun and high quality climbing. Hard to pass it up after rapping right over it from the Melvin's P1 top anchors.

Note: in the L>R sort, this could go just right of Melvin's. Apr 11, 2016
Great route. The move to the big hold about a third of the way up is one of the best I've made on the ridge. Jul 28, 2010
Yo. This route is called "The Goose". It was put up by myself and Kerry Cowan around the summer of 2002. We gave it a rating of 5.10c, but I am a pretty poor slab climber. Hope folks are enjoying it.

celin May 12, 2009
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
I believe this is called The Goose, installed by Celin Serbo and Co. I found it to be a nice pitch with good variety. Jul 25, 2008