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Routes in The Bookmark

37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backflip T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bellyflop T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Between The Sheets T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bookmark OW T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cave Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coleman's Complex T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of No Return T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dead in Bed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Side T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fantasy Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Goose, The T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inside Straight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Joy and Tribulation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Klingon (with direct start) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Manhole Cover T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marginal Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Original Fantasy Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Penis Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plan A T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rhythm Method T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Romulan Territory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Screamin' Eagles S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Seams Like A Dream T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skid You Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sojourn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Son of a Pitch T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Star Trek T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Time Machine T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Twiggy's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Virgin Spring T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wigglin' Fingies T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bob Culp, Wayne Goss, Cliff Jennings, 1966
Page Views: 999 total · 5/month
Shared By: S. Kimball on Jan 16, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is a great approach pitch to Bookmark's Library Ledge, even if Backflip or Bellyflop are not taken. The 1st 20 feet will school ya in Lumpy flared cracks.... Hike up 50 feet left from the base of Backflip to a flat, sandy spot below a [straight] up groove, that is thin at first then widens. Those crystals at the start are might small for 5.9...but after a few foot shifts and opposition moves, the crack opens to easier jamming. Some nice 5.7 or 8 leads to a small ledge 50 feet below Library Ledge. One can traverse right to the anchors on Bellyflop and rap 75 feet or continue to the summit.

Protection

Standard Lumpy Ridge rack, with allowances for more gear if summiting.

Photos

Ed Krejcik
Broomfield, CO
Ed Krejcik   Broomfield, CO
Agree with all the above comments. Kept sliming off of the first holds, 'cuz it felt greasy (wet?). Was working opposing pull holds to stay on. Ultimately shut down, and I don't normally get shut down on 5.9+. Harder, probs yeah, but make one more move, and it looks like it's over, and yeah, I'm short.... Jun 10, 2017
Rodger Raubach
  5.10a
Rodger Raubach  
  5.10a
The start--first few moves off the ground--may constitute the crux. Taller climbers may find this easier, but the 2 "shorties" I was climbing with when I did the route had some trouble. Slightly difficult to protect in spots. Mar 19, 2011
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.9+
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.9+
This can be 5.9+, but you have to wait for the lichen on the start to completely dry off. It seems to retain water longer than most things around there. May 22, 2006
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10c
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10c
No way this is 5.9. Nicer as a 5.8 A1, aiding off of 2 Aliens to start. Jun 6, 2004

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