Type: Trad, 350 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bob Culp, Wayne Goss, Cliff Jennings, 1966
Page Views: 1,040 total · 5/month
Shared By: S. Kimball on Jan 16, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is a great approach pitch to Bookmark's Library Ledge, even if Backflip or Bellyflop are not taken. The 1st 20 feet will school ya in Lumpy flared cracks.... Hike up 50 feet left from the base of Backflip to a flat, sandy spot below a [straight] up groove, that is thin at first then widens. Those crystals at the start are might small for 5.9...but after a few foot shifts and opposition moves, the crack opens to easier jamming. Some nice 5.7 or 8 leads to a small ledge 50 feet below Library Ledge. One can traverse right to the anchors on Bellyflop and rap 75 feet or continue to the summit.

Protection

Standard Lumpy Ridge rack, with allowances for more gear if summiting.

Photos

Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10c
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10c
No way this is 5.9. Nicer as a 5.8 A1, aiding off of 2 Aliens to start. Jun 6, 2004
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.9+
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.9+
This can be 5.9+, but you have to wait for the lichen on the start to completely dry off. It seems to retain water longer than most things around there. May 22, 2006
Rodger Raubach
  5.10a
Rodger Raubach  
  5.10a
The start--first few moves off the ground--may constitute the crux. Taller climbers may find this easier, but the 2 "shorties" I was climbing with when I did the route had some trouble. Slightly difficult to protect in spots. Mar 19, 2011
Ed Krejcik
Broomfield, CO
Ed Krejcik   Broomfield, CO
Agree with all the above comments. Kept sliming off of the first holds, 'cuz it felt greasy (wet?). Was working opposing pull holds to stay on. Ultimately shut down, and I don't normally get shut down on 5.9+. Harder, probs yeah, but make one more move, and it looks like it's over, and yeah, I'm short.... Jun 10, 2017