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Routes in The Bookmark

37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backflip T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bellyflop T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Between The Sheets T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bookmark OW T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cave Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coleman's Complex T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of No Return T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dead in Bed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Side T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fantasy Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Goose, The T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inside Straight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Joy and Tribulation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Klingon (with direct start) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Manhole Cover T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marginal Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Original Fantasy Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Penis Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plan A T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rhythm Method T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Romulan Territory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Screamin' Eagles S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Seams Like A Dream T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skid You Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sojourn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Son of a Pitch T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Star Trek T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Time Machine T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Twiggy's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Virgin Spring T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wigglin' Fingies T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Steve Shea & Dick Jimmerson, 1968
Page Views: 13,069 total, 63/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is a route with a couple of superb corners but also some rather questionable sections. Hike around to the east of the 100 foot high flatiron that leans against the face. Backflip begins in the long, clean right-facing flake near the narrow gully which separates the main rock from the Bookmark Pinnacle.

P1 - Climb the 5.8 flake with excellent liebacks and hand-jams, and belay at its top.

P2 - Ascend an easy corner on the left to a long ledge.

P3 - Take the right of two clean, thin dihedrals (the other being Romulan Territority). After 30 or so feet, undercling out right where it turns into a roof. Belay on easier ground at some flakes. (5.8) Variations: 1)-turn the 5.9 roof capping the dihedral, belay, and then continue in a crack to the end of Romulan Territority; 2)-after the undercling, continue up an attractive looking but very thin 5.9 dihedral and arrange a belay at its top.

P4 - Climb up and right, then back left to a broken area, and continue to easy ground and the eastern descent. 5.8 or so, but a much lower quality pitch. variation: directly above the belay is an absurdly thin and shallow 5.9 "crack" that apparently was the original line of the route.

Protection

Standard rack.

Descent

Eds. You can go right down and around Bookmark Pinnacle. There are 1-2 raps that can be used (one is off a huge tree).

Eds. Apparently, a new descent has been added (caveat emptor): First, rappel to the east off the slings around the big block. Then, used the rappel station at the bottom of this first rappel to rappel south (not east!) into the bushy gully (Don’t stop at an old intermediate station with ratty slings in this gully, but continue to a level stance. Then, traverse L (west) for about 15 feet on the Bookmark face, where a rappel station around some large flakes using 5.5 mm cord and a steel rappel ring. From here, rappel to the bolts atop p1 and from there to the ground, which landed us exactly at our packs. 60m rope recommended.
If anyone was up on Backflip today and saw a three piece anchor at the top, I somehow got distracted and left it behind. Would love to get that gear back, and I'll have some beer for your kindness. Marriola04@gmail.com Jun 25, 2016
Backflip is a beautiful route, among the best in this area of the Books. In honor of Shea and Jimmerson's ascent 47 years ago, Steve Levin and I climbed it on July 6. We're old enough to remember those days past, but because we were both 9 years old, we were watching the Flintstones on a black and white TV instead of banging pins into new routes at Lumpy.

Levin had guided it before; I had never climbed it, and we did it in four pitches. While Shea's rating is reflective of the extraordinary standard of his generation of Lumpy hardmen, everywhere else in the world this climb is 5.9.

The thoughtful runout on pitch 4 is on easier ground, but you better have your game on for this section and the well-protected crux move above it.

We upgraded the top sling rappel anchor into the gully, and were glad to have a 70m rope for both rappels. Jul 8, 2014
Dick Jimmerson and I did this in summer '68. We thought it was 5.8 not 5.9, and we had the Kronhofer penalty. The last pitch did go straight up the crack, we used pins for pro. May 26, 2014
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
 
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
 
Variation after P1:
P2. From the ledge, proceed up the broken crack and flakes closest to the 2 bolt station. At small roof, traverse right 15' to crack below bush, climb crack and face to stance, 5.9-.
P3. Trusting instinct, traverse up & right with no pro on easy face until reaching finger crack with good pro, up this to a hand traverse right and scary mantle. Continue up cracks until its possible to traverse right to easier ground, 5.9-.
P4. Continue up large cracks tending left and up arete to summit blocks, 5.8.

At the top of P3 after cracks above mantle, we tried to push straight up but came to orange ramp and dihedral. Since the dihedral had no pro, we downclimbed until we could traverse right to large cracks then back left setting belay at top of dihedral.
--Ross Dec 1, 2013
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Personally, I didn't think this route was amazing. The first pitch is excellent. The rest of the route had a bit of loose rock. Especially the flakes under the roof. I couldn't believe how much chalk was on the big flake in the roof. I foot traversed the slab underneath without even touching the thing (at 5.8/5.9)... and never even thought about placing gear in it.

Above there, I didn't realize that the route went right, so I stayed in the dihedral. Ok climbing on ok rock but not great. Also, I messed up and linked from the P1 bolts all the way through the whole dihedral (where end of p3 meets back up). Not really recommended, too much drag. Belay from the long ledge is probably best.

For the standard descent to the east, do a rap to the bench between The Bookmark and Pinnacle. The normal descent goes east (not the bushy gully towards your packs but the left side of the formation). If you downclimb the first 15' section, there is a tat anchor on the under-side of that boulder (which you can't see from above). Aug 5, 2013
Climbed this route on August 7, 2010. We also did not locate the rob.calm descent noted by Eds. We did find the descent noted by Robert McGibbon in the gully, and unfortunately we can't recommend it. The scramble to the second rap is exposed, and leads you to a rap station with ripped slings. The gully has a number of large loose rocks, and is filled with vegetation. Next time we'll walk down. Aug 7, 2010
Climbed this today with Matt Reeser, who lead everything but the first pitch which we broke into two on a good stance with good gear. If you're thinking of breaking into the 5.9 grade on this climb, I wouldn't recommend it. The cruxes are not very sustained, but everything else is and it is a challenge to place gear (though if you can, it's very solid for the most part). Ron Olsen's description is what we climbed with the exception of breaking the first pitch into two. I give this a solid 5.9 rating for technical difficulty. Jun 29, 2010
Nat Thiem
Boulder, CO
Nat Thiem   Boulder, CO
Just a note on descents. The rob.calm descent no longer seems to exist. The 5 mm cord was nowhere to be found August 20, 2009. There seem to be plenty of alternatives, though. Sep 1, 2009
While a bit easier than most of the 5.9s I've done at Lumpy, I think Backflip is more challenging and sustained than either Melvin's Wheel or Pear Buttress. Giving this route a 5.8 would be a sandbag - I think easy 9 or full-value 9- is more accurate, on par with Mainliner. Jun 10, 2009
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8
This is the "softest" 5.9 I have ever done at Lumpy. Although easy for the grade it is a great, fun climb and I highly recommend it. May 15, 2009
W. Spaller
  5.9
W. Spaller  
  5.9
I did the #2 variation of pitch 3 and thought it was very good. If planning on doing this bring extra thin gear. C3s worked very well for me. Dec 9, 2008
Cale Farnham  
 
The small crack below the roof to the traverse is the most stimulating move on the climb! Kinda blind going around the corner! Excellent line definitely recommended! The name says it all! Sep 10, 2008
Scott Bower
Fort Collins, CO
 
Scott Bower   Fort Collins, CO
 
The "thin seam" can be well protected. I put a 0.3 or 0.4 Camalot low in the crack followed by 2 smallish but solid stoppers at 3 foot intervals above it. 2 pieces would have been enough, but after the runout (it wasn't bad with very positive holds), I wanted some redundancy. Aug 23, 2008
- - -
  5.9
- - -  
  5.9
Great route.

We took a slightly different descent that I think is worth noting. From the big blocks at the top, we rapped down and then scrambled SOUTH (into the bushy gully between the Bookmark and the Bbookmark Pinnacle) another 15-20 feet to a rap station on a big chockstone. We took this down a FULL 30m (60m rope) to another rap station in the gully. Make sure to tie the ends of the rope, because it takes the WHOLE rope to get there. From here, we rapped straight to our packs.

Neither of the two rap stations in the gully had rap rings - both had carabiners. This is as of July 31, 2008.

Although a little overgrown, this direct line down to our packs was hard to beat. Jul 31, 2008
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
  5.9-
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
  5.9-
Did this route yesterday - I definitely think that the first pitch might be the most demanding. It is definitely the most sustained. On the fourth pitch, after the run out to the thin seam I got a small Alien in at the base of the seam. I am not certain how you might 'sew it up' as the seam is thin and flaring. My Alien placement was not so great, but I think I could have gotten a better placement a little higher; however, I did not want to clutter up my jams with gear (although I think this seam is straightforward enough that this was not necessary). I had previously done the fourth pitch to the top, but I think that I would bust out right after the steep headwall (in line with ) over the easy fins and rap from the fin around the corner. From there, it is three raps (or two and a long walk off) down the descent chimneys to the base of the pinnacle. 60 m ropes get you to the ground and you miss some of the less impressive climbing on an otherwise excellent route. Jul 3, 2007
rob.calm
Loveland, Colorado
  5.9
rob.calm   Loveland, Colorado
  5.9
Mike Duncan and I climbed the route yesterday. We added a new rappel station. First, we rappelled to the east off the slings around the big block. Then we used the rappel station at the bottom of this first rappel to rappel south (not east!) into the bushy gully (Don’t stop at an old intermediate station with ratty slings in this gully, but continue to a level stance. Then we traversed L (west) for about 15 feet on the Bookmark face, where we a fashioned a rappel station around some large flakes using 5.5 mm cord and a steel rappel ring. From here, rappelled to the bolts atop p1 and from there to the ground, which landed us exactly at our packs. 60m rope recommended. Sep 20, 2006
Luke Clarke
Golden
  5.9
Luke Clarke   Golden
  5.9
Climb this as described by Ron Olsen above, as it's described in the Gillett guide book, and it's a three-star classic. With the exception of the easy second half of P1, most moves are consistently in the 5.8 to 5.9- range with a crux on P3 in fine position. Don't miss this one. Jul 10, 2005
Cale Csizmadi
Colorado Springs
  5.9
Cale Csizmadi   Colorado Springs
  5.9
Climbed the route this past weekend as described by Ron (above). Had a great time under perfect spring conditions. Great way to start off the Lumpy season.

Gear- P1: Good gear mostly stoppers and camalots (0.75-3.0). P2: Mostly small stuff. We used stoppers, green and yellow aliens up to the undercling with 0.5 and 1.0 Camalot protecting the traverse. P3: BD swedges and stoppers with one red alien for gear up through the crux. Then med. stoppers and camalots up to a #2 worked fine. Apr 6, 2005
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
 
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
 
I upgraded the first rappel anchor (slings around a big block) with a new triple runner on 8/24/03. The three slings on this anchor were all seriously bleached by the sun. The dark blue runner I removed was completely white in places. Anyone climbing Backflip in the near future should bring a triple runner (and a knife) and replace another one of the old slings. Aug 28, 2003
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.8+
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.8+
You can combine P2&3 with a 60m rope. From what I've been told, it's better than combining 1&2 which tends to get the rope jammed in the crack. There is a face climbing alternative to the undercling of P3. Go up and protect the moves with a #1 Friend in the undercling, downclimb, foot traverse R. You can get at least 5 wireds in the P4 thin crack.

Excellent. Better than Melvin's Wheel.

Easier than it looks. Soft at 5.9. Felt easier than Melvin's Wheel. Aug 28, 2003
Eli Helmuth
Ciales, PR
  5.9-
Eli Helmuth   Ciales, PR
  5.9-
One of my favorite routes on the Bookmark, it can easily be done in two 60m pitches to the horn rappel anchors or add another dirty 60m pitch to the top of the formation. Aug 14, 2003
Scott Conner
Lyons, CO
  5.9-
Scott Conner   Lyons, CO
  5.9-
Fabulous! We did this route exactly as Ron describes above and it's superb. I think it's as good as Pear Buttress and Loose Ends, and the difficulty falls between the two. Aug 9, 2003
This is a 3 star route.The only exception is some hollow sounding rock on the 3rd pitch and some exciting gear on the fourth pitch. There is good gear at the crux, but it's a little runout with questionable nut placements for the first 1/2 of the pitch. Oct 13, 2002
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
 
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
 
The pin on the third pitch is indeed long gone. I placed a small Alien and then a red Lowe ball to protect the crux move at the top of the crack. There's a great jug on the lip of the ledge right of the crack that you're shooting for; it's an easier move if you're tall. Most people I've climbed with have more trouble on the first pitch crux than on this move. Jul 30, 2002
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
Hmm, maybe I had my eye on the wrong crack there (I was looking for a pin, I guess that's gone), or maybe this is one of those many Lumpy 9s that I would find harder/scarier than Wolf's Tooth ;) Jul 30, 2002
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
 
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
 
Backflip is a three-star Lumpy Ridge classic if done by the most interesting line. It can be done in three pitches with a 60-meter rope.

Pitch 1: (5.8+, 170 feet) Climb the layback flake and a steep corner (crux) to a good ledge with two bolts. Continue left and up to a good ledge.

Pitch 2: (5.9-, 70 feet) Climb the right-facing corner above, make a delicate step right (crux), up to a roof, then undercling right and continue right to a small belay stance by some flakes and grooves.

Pitch 3: (5.9, 170 feet) Climb right and up an easy runout face to a thin crack. Climb the crack to a steep headwall and make a dicey move at the top of the crack (crux) gaining a ledge. Continue straight up a short steep right-facing corner (5.8), and angle up left to another short steep corner. Layback up this corner (5.8) to a ramp. Go up the ramp, then step down right to a hand crack. Climb the hand crack to a ledge at the top.

Descent: Downclimb (4th class) to a rappel anchor (slings around a block). Rappel 95' down behind Bookmark Pinnacle to another rappel station (two slings behind a boulder; no rap rings on 7/29/02). A short rappel and a traverse left takes you to the descent gully.

Protection: standard rack through #3 or #3.5 Camalot. Extra Aliens, an extra #1, #2 Camalot and some extra runners are useful for the long pitches. Jul 30, 2002
The "absurdly thin and shallow crack" mentioned in the description of P4 is excellent climbing as good as the rest of the route. The guidebook topos show a fixed pin in this crack which is now gone, however you can sew it up with small stoppers. Jul 29, 2002