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Routes in The Bookmark

37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backflip T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bellyflop T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Between The Sheets T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bookmark OW T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cave Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coleman's Complex T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of No Return T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dead in Bed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Side T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fantasy Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Goose, The T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inside Straight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Joy and Tribulation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Klingon (with direct start) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Manhole Cover T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marginal Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Original Fantasy Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Penis Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plan A T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rhythm Method T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Romulan Territory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Screamin' Eagles S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Seams Like A Dream T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skid You Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sojourn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Son of a Pitch T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Star Trek T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Time Machine T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Twiggy's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Virgin Spring T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wigglin' Fingies T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Eli Helmuth, 2001
Page Views: 1,703 total, 10/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Aug 23, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Season raptor closures Details

Description

Start as for Backflip, but climb the flake system immediately to the left. This initial flake can be protected with four medium-sized cams; the leader can scope out the required pro from the ground. Work left onto the slab and follow four bolts to the top. The climbing is delicate and sustained.

The two-bolt anchor is on a good ledge. The leader can bring up the second, or rappel/lower 95' back down. The leader should extend the anchor with a cordalette or long slings if they are going to rappel or lower and belay the second from the ground.

Bellyflop can be top-roped after leading the first 100' of Backflip (5.8+). One could also climb the gully right of Backflip to access the top anchor. Be sure to extend the anchor if you are going to top-rope.

Protection

Four gear placements (medium cams) and four bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

Photos

Didn't look to me (as of yesterday) that any holds had broken or crumbled. The crux sequence at the second bolt is tricky to figure out on-sight; but once you've got it figured out, it's not too hard.

However, I couldn't imagine leading this in approach shoes. I'll stick with my 5.10 Anasazis for now. Jun 3, 2013
Curt Nelson
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
Curt Nelson   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
Sorry, Eli, I have realized my mistake there - I actually talked to someone who knew you and informed me of my stupidity... it was way hot when I tried this - my mountain boots would have edged better. I bet Sarah couldn't get up the thing! Peace. Oct 26, 2008
Curt Nelson
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
Curt Nelson   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
The bottom crack was great fun,, but I'd love to see Eli lead this in his approach shoes - I thought the top around the third bolt was very thin. Maybe something has changed over the years? Sep 2, 2008
Brian Weinstein
  5.10d
Brian Weinstein  
  5.10d
I thought the one-move crux was quite thin and warranted a 10d rating. High quality crack and face climbing. Nice route. Jul 2, 2005
justin dubois
Estes Park
justin dubois   Estes Park
I did this for the first time yesterday, great pitch. For some reason I had it in my head that it was 10a, you can imagine my dismay when passing the second bolt, I thought for sure I was off. I managed it, but was glad to see it's called 10c. I've heard people say it's harder since the first ascent, maybe somthing busted off. Still, a great pitch that's pretty sustained and fun. Mar 22, 2004
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
 
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
 
...We got down with a single 60m rope with about 5 feet to spare.

If you lead Backflip, traverse over to the Bellyflop anchor, and then try to lower, I could see where a 60m rope wouldn't make it. A straight rappel down Bellyflop (or a lower after leading Bellyflop) is doable with one 60m rope.

A note on the pro: the leader in our group placed two medium wired nuts, a #2 Camalot, and a #1 Friend to protect the starting flake. Aug 29, 2003