Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Eli Helmuth, Chris Weidner
Page Views: 1,215 total · 6/month
Shared By: Chris Weidner on May 29, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

Wigglin' Fingies climbs the attractive east face of Bookmark Pinnacle via a 50-foot arching flake/crack leading to a thin, clean slab. Carefully traverse left from the base of the "Cave Route" (in the descent chimney) to the steep flake/crack on the east face. Small nuts and a small cam or two protect the awkward layback start of the route. Where the crack fades out clip a bolt, then continue up the powerful underclings with good gear, including a small fixed nut. Now, tiptoe up the delicate (i.e.: desperate!) slab passing four bolts to the two-bolt anchor on top of the face. One may want to save the #00 TCU as a final piece before the anchor. Enjoy!

Protection

Small to medium nuts, 1 each cams #00 TCU to #0.75 Camalot. There is one fixed nut plus 5 bolts en route to a two-bolt anchor at 80 feet. The belayer may want an anchor at the precarious stance beneath the route, which requires larger cams; #2 and #3 Camalots.

Photos

Eli Helmuth
Ciales, PR
  5.12b
Eli Helmuth   Ciales, PR
  5.12b
Topher Donahue made the first onsight ascent of this route in July of 2002, confirming the grade and quality. Aug 13, 2003
Dale Remsberg
  5.12a
Dale Remsberg  
  5.12a
Climbed Wigglin today!!! what a rad route! No doubt the slab is hard but don't under estimate the opening crack moves or they may sting you in the tail. The fixed nut is still in place and is way bomber.

cheers,

dale Mar 23, 2004