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Routes in The Bookmark

37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backflip T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bellyflop T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Between The Sheets T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bookmark OW T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cave Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coleman's Complex T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of No Return T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dead in Bed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Side T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fantasy Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Goose, The T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inside Straight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Joy and Tribulation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Klingon (with direct start) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Manhole Cover T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marginal Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Original Fantasy Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Penis Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plan A T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rhythm Method T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Romulan Territory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Screamin' Eagles S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Seams Like A Dream T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skid You Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sojourn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Son of a Pitch T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Star Trek T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Time Machine T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Twiggy's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Virgin Spring T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wigglin' Fingies T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Eli Helmuth, Chris Weidner
Page Views: 1,165 total, 7/month
Shared By: Chris Weidner on May 29, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Season raptor closures Details

Description

Wigglin' Fingies climbs the attractive east face of Bookmark Pinnacle via a 50-foot arching flake/crack leading to a thin, clean slab. Carefully traverse left from the base of the "Cave Route" (in the descent chimney) to the steep flake/crack on the east face. Small nuts and a small cam or two protect the awkward layback start of the route. Where the crack fades out clip a bolt, then continue up the powerful underclings with good gear, including a small fixed nut. Now, tiptoe up the delicate (i.e.: desperate!) slab passing four bolts to the two-bolt anchor on top of the face. One may want to save the #00 TCU as a final piece before the anchor. Enjoy!

Protection

Small to medium nuts, 1 each cams #00 TCU to #0.75 Camalot. There is one fixed nut plus 5 bolts en route to a two-bolt anchor at 80 feet. The belayer may want an anchor at the precarious stance beneath the route, which requires larger cams; #2 and #3 Camalots.

Photos

Dale Remsberg
  5.12a
Dale Remsberg  
  5.12a
Climbed Wigglin today!!! what a rad route! No doubt the slab is hard but don't under estimate the opening crack moves or they may sting you in the tail. The fixed nut is still in place and is way bomber.

cheers,

dale Mar 23, 2004
Eli Helmuth
Ciales, PR
  5.12b
Eli Helmuth   Ciales, PR
  5.12b
Topher Donahue made the first onsight ascent of this route in July of 2002, confirming the grade and quality. Aug 13, 2003