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Routes in The Bookmark

37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backflip T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bellyflop T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Between The Sheets T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bookmark OW T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cave Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coleman's Complex T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of No Return T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dead in Bed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Side T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fantasy Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Goose, The T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Inside Straight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Joy and Tribulation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Klingon (with direct start) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Manhole Cover T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marginal Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Original Fantasy Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Penis Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plan A T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rhythm Method T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Romulan Territory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Screamin' Eagles S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Seams Like A Dream T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skid You Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sojourn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Son of a Pitch T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Star Trek T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Time Machine T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Twiggy's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Virgin Spring T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wigglin' Fingies T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Malcolm Daly/Bill Wylie
Page Views: 7,589 total · 36/month
Shared By: Malcolm Daly on Oct 6, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details


Splitter, thin crack and face climbing on the West Face of the Bookmark. The guidebooks say to approach from the first two pitches of Fantasy Ridge. Sounds good. but we scrambled to the ledge below the crack. You can do it either way. The route is obvious from the ledge.

P1 - Climb the thin cracks to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.11+.

P2 - Traverse right to the buttress and face climb to the top. 5.10d.


Thin stuff and a few draws.


justin dubois
Estes Park
justin dubois   Estes Park
The manky, quarter-inch spinners at the anchor have been replaced with three-eighths bolts with steel rings. It makes the hanging belay a little less spooky. An interesting note for those of you who have rapped off these recently, one of them popped out with a very gentle tap from a crowbar! Mar 24, 2002
David A. Turner
David A. Turner  
This is one great route. In Malcolm's comments, he rates the first pitch at 5.11+ rather than 11b. I believe the former is more accurate. Thin, a little hard to see the placements at the crux, superlative rock, great climbing. Jul 26, 2002
This is the best climb I have ever done. It takes superb gear and is sustained thin climbing with a few thank God finger jams. 5.11d, I thought. Jul 31, 2003
Bob Rotert
Bob Rotert  
Did this route yesterday with Richard Aschert and both of us agreed it is a great route. Also agreed the 11 c rating was a bit under what the route should be rated. To try and help with concensus on rating this route. For a onsight trad lead, we both agreed if we were to split the letter grades, it might be closer to 11d/12a [than] 11d/11c. But letter grades can be like splitting hairs. I prefer the the 11 minus, solid 11, or 11 plus rating system where I would have no problem calling this 11+. And whats with Malcom writing this up as 11b and then in the description saying it is 11+. Sorry, but I'm confused! Regardless of that it has lots of good, sustained climbing with a hard crux at the end, just before getting to the belay bolts. Protection is good but can be a little testy gettting in on lead. Pro is mostly RPs and small stoppers.

This pitch is a great trad lead. In the tradition of trad climbing, the belay could be avoided if one wanted to add difficulty, since this is not really a spot where the climbing stops or is even an actual rest. If one wanted they could by pass the belay and continue the line to the top before belaying. We did not do this. I was very happy to be able to get the on site lead up to the belay bolts without falling and off my aching feet!! Hats off to Malcolm & Bill for this plum!! Oct 9, 2005
Roy Leggett
Lyons, CO
Roy Leggett   Lyons, CO
Does anyone know what the "Seam Direct" finish is all about on P.2? Rather then breaking right around the bulge, you would stay in the seam. From what I remember: there was a fixed nut and 2 bolts (with red tags). Jun 7, 2006
Yes, it is Seams Like A Dream. Check it out! Jun 10, 2007
In addition to the thin gear: a #0.75 Camalot works nicely below the crux, right after a very thin section. Jun 12, 2007
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
FuMazing! One of the best pitches I've done at Lumpy. Incredible stone with perfect pro (though its a little strenuous to place). I think I placed one #0.75 down low... other wise it's a lot of small #4-#6 stoppers and some smaller cams. Not to be missed. Jun 7, 2010

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