Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: George Hurley and Dave Rearick, 1975
Page Views: 1,282 total · 5/month
Shared By: paco on Mar 31, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Crack of No Return is located on the Bookmark Pinnacle left of Son of a Pitch.

Start just left of Son of a Pitch and make a bouldery traverse left on great rock to reach the base of the Crack of No Return. I was lucky enough to do this with a nice, 2 foot deep, snow drift under the crux. Otherwise, a crash pad may be nice? After climbing a little ways into the actual crack, the climbing eases to steep 5.8 hands and a little wide stuff.

There is now also a direct start to this climb which eliminates the traverse and goes at 5.12ish?

Protection Suggest change

The crux of this route is a unprotected traverse six feet off the ground. Those with weak ankles may want to bring a crash pad and/or a good spotter for the crux. Bring some small cams and some pro up to 4" for the crack above.


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