Romulan Territory
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Scott Kimball, Carl Harrison, late 1970s |
Page Views: | 10,833 total · 44/month |
Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Seasonal Raptor Closures March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is a classic, thin corner climb with quintessential Lumpy climbing. Hike to the Bookmark, and walk around to the east of a massive, 100 foot high "flatiron" that leans up against it. The route can be identified by a very large, right-facing dihedral/roof on the uppper third of the face that arcs sharply to the right at its top.
P1 - the goal is to achieve a much smaller dihedral down and slightly right of the larger dihedral. Pick a groove (5.9) or a wide, brushy crack (5.7), both of which are up almost behind the flatiron (right of an impressive wide flake) and which lead into easier flakes that in turn [achieve] the desired location. A better but longer start is to do the first 2 pitches of Backflip to the right.
P2 - starting from a good ledge, lieback a sustained, flared right-facing corner (not to be confused with the corner of Backflip 20 feet to the right) which first jogs right and then back left. Stretch the lead all the way into a ledge in the bottom of the upper dihedral (crux, with enough pro to keep you going--save a medium Friend for the 5.10 bulge halfway up).
P3 - a full ropelength up the very flared crack (tricky pro) in the large dihedral; undercling out to the right at the end, or turn the 5.10 roof and go to the summit (full rope-length either way), sustained 5.9.
P1 - the goal is to achieve a much smaller dihedral down and slightly right of the larger dihedral. Pick a groove (5.9) or a wide, brushy crack (5.7), both of which are up almost behind the flatiron (right of an impressive wide flake) and which lead into easier flakes that in turn [achieve] the desired location. A better but longer start is to do the first 2 pitches of Backflip to the right.
P2 - starting from a good ledge, lieback a sustained, flared right-facing corner (not to be confused with the corner of Backflip 20 feet to the right) which first jogs right and then back left. Stretch the lead all the way into a ledge in the bottom of the upper dihedral (crux, with enough pro to keep you going--save a medium Friend for the 5.10 bulge halfway up).
P3 - a full ropelength up the very flared crack (tricky pro) in the large dihedral; undercling out to the right at the end, or turn the 5.10 roof and go to the summit (full rope-length either way), sustained 5.9.
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