Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Scott Kimball, Carl Harrison, late 1970s
Page Views: 12,359 total · 43/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is a classic, thin corner climb with quintessential Lumpy climbing. It is also known as “Romulan Scaritory” ;) 

Hike to the Bookmark, and walk around to the east of a massive, 100 foot high "flatiron" that leans up against it. The route can be identified by a very large, right-facing dihedral/roof on the upper third of the face that arcs sharply to the right at its top.

P1 - the goal is to achieve a much smaller dihedral down and slightly right of the larger dihedral. Pick a groove (5.9) or a wide, brushy crack (5.7), both of which are up almost behind the flatiron (right of an impressive wide flake) and which lead into easier flakes that in turn [achieve] the desired location. A better but longer start is to do the first 2 pitches of Backflip to the right.

P2 - starting from a good ledge, lieback a sustained, flared right-facing corner (not to be confused with the corner of Backflip 20 feet to the right) which first jogs right and then back left. Stretch the lead all the way into a ledge in the bottom of the upper dihedral (crux, with enough pro to keep you going--save a .75 or 1 Camalot for the 5.10 bulge halfway up).

P3 - a full ropelength up the very flared crack (tricky pro) in the large dihedral; undercling out to the right at the end, or turn the 5.10 roof and go to the summit (full rope-length either way), sustained 5.9.

Protection Suggest change

A standard rack with emphasis on smaller gear - e.g., doubles on TCUs 0-2 or equivalent and plenty of small-medium stoppers. I don't remember for sure if I placed RPs, but I would bring them for sure.