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Romulan Territory
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.7 from 68
votes
Routes in The Bookmark
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37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Backflip T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Bellyflop T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Between The Sheets T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Bookmark OW T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Cave Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Coleman's Complex T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Crack of No Return T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dead in Bed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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East Side T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fall Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fantasy Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Goose, The T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Inside Straight T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Joy and Tribulation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Klingon (with direct start) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Manhole Cover T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Marginal Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Original Fantasy Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Penis Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Plan A T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rhythm Method T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Romulan Territory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Screamin' Eagles S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Seams Like A Dream T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Skid You Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sojourn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Son of a Pitch T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Star Trek T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Time Machine T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Twiggy's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Virgin Spring T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Wigglin' Fingies T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Scott Kimball, Carl Harrison, late 1970s |
| Page Views: | 9,460 total · 44/month |
| Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Season raptor closures
Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is a classic, thin corner climb, quite representative of Lumpy Ridge. Hike to the Bookmark, and walk around to the east of a massive, 100 foot high "flatiron" that leans up against it. The route is identified by a very large, right-facing dihedral/roof on the uppper third of the face.
P1 - the goal is to achieve a much smaller dihedral down and slightly right of the larger dihedral. Pick a groove (5.9) or a wide, brushy crack (5.7), both of which are up almost behind the flatiron (right of an impressive wide flake), and which lead into easier flakes that in turn [achieve] the desired location. A better but longer start is to do the first 2 pitches of Backflip to the right.
P2 - starting from a good ledge, lieback a sustained, flared right-facing corner (not to be confused with the corner of Backflip 20 feet to the right) which first jogs right and then back left. Stretch the lead all the way into a ledge in the bottom of the upper dihedral (crux, with enough pro to keep you going--save a medium Friend for the 5.10 bulge halfway up).
P3 - a full ropelength up the very flared crack (tricky pro) in the large dihedral; undercling out to the right at the end, or turn the 5.10 roof and go to the summit (full rope-length either way). Sustained 5.9.
P1 - the goal is to achieve a much smaller dihedral down and slightly right of the larger dihedral. Pick a groove (5.9) or a wide, brushy crack (5.7), both of which are up almost behind the flatiron (right of an impressive wide flake), and which lead into easier flakes that in turn [achieve] the desired location. A better but longer start is to do the first 2 pitches of Backflip to the right.
P2 - starting from a good ledge, lieback a sustained, flared right-facing corner (not to be confused with the corner of Backflip 20 feet to the right) which first jogs right and then back left. Stretch the lead all the way into a ledge in the bottom of the upper dihedral (crux, with enough pro to keep you going--save a medium Friend for the 5.10 bulge halfway up).
P3 - a full ropelength up the very flared crack (tricky pro) in the large dihedral; undercling out to the right at the end, or turn the 5.10 roof and go to the summit (full rope-length either way). Sustained 5.9.
Around Boulder, CO
mind & body in Colorado, he…
Grand Junction
One of the best 10a's in the Front Range (and elsewhere for that matter). Jul 14, 2003
We were in fact just breaking into 5.10 when we got on this route, thinking 10a. My partner, Mike Flannagan, on-sighted the crux pitch in impeccable style and somehow I managed to clean it without hanging, too! But it was definitely harder than we anticipated and I would agree with a 10c upgrade. Strenuous fingertip liebacks with tricky gear placements (RPs, Aliens) from strenuous stances. I then led P2 and would rate that sustained 5.9+, but I don't think it warrants upgrade to 10a. Oct 9, 2003
Fort Collins, CO
I was surprised that there was more hard climbing in another dihedral after the crux bulge. A bit easier, but smoother with no real rest, and the gear is a little further apart and not quite as good as the first dihedral. Once again, I stopped in the wrong place, prior to the last few moves, and expended way too much effort getting a piece in.
For the belay, bring some hand-sized cams to place in the corner to the left. Else the gear would be marginal.
Thought P2 was hard, following that pitch. Some bad rock and runouts. Maybe tired.
We carried and used most of this nuclear arsenal: triple micronuts including Astros, HB offsets, steel red and blue Ballnuts. Single bigger nuts, triple microcams to finger-sized including hybrid Aliens and offset Friends. Doubles above that to hand-sized. Jun 6, 2004
Pinewood Springs
Fort Collins CO
Make sure you have a double set of small nuts for the second pitch. There is a no hands rest right before the crux. Oct 10, 2005
Boulder, CO
Fort Collins, CO
Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
This is a great route. Jul 20, 2008
Boulder, CO
Moab, UT
Innsbruck, AT
The key to success on this climb is managing your head. None of the individual moves are difficult! However, when you place gear you have three options (which I usually attempted in this order):
1) Attempt to place gear in lieback position for speed.
2) Attempt to find "rest", usually involving full body scum or tenuous stem and place gear.
3) If the above fail, just go.
If you are able to pull a 5.9 lieback move and are willing to keep on going when the gear just isn't there, you will experience success on this climb. Oct 31, 2010