Type: Trad, Grade II
FA: Harry Kent, Scott Kimball, 1976
Page Views: 2,636 total · 11/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Aug 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: 2021 Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This fun chimney route is located on the Bookmark Pinnacle, a buttress at the SE corner of the Bookmark. I'll spare all the obvious double entendres. Locate the start by hiking to the Bookmark and then going right around the large "flatiron" to a brushy gully (right of Romulan Territory and Backflip). The chimney begins on the right, about 25 feet up the gully. Secure 5.8 chimneying (funky pro without Big Bros) leads to the crux bulge/OW/stem. It's possible to get a #5 Camalot deep in the chimney below the bulge, but above, the crack is too wide, and a fall will slam you back into the flaring chimney. Very questionable small nuts and cams can be placed in a short crack above the bulge. From here three options exist: the most obvious continues up the tight chimney/OW (good small piece for the last hard move) to a trough underneath a huge block; walk under it and belay. Or, climb the outside of the block at 5.9. Another option traverses left on a narrow ledge (which looks scary to get onto) about 10 feet above the bulge to a 5.8+ crack.

In any case, one should move the belay up to a large block just above the gully on the west side of the pinnacle (which is by now evident), about 40 feet above the block capping the chimney, and below a steep 5.8 hand crack (with a bush). Finish by climbing the good but crystalline hand crack (and bring one of your wide pieces for the slot at the top!), and then climb up the exciting 5.7 ridge (scary for the second), left of a chimney, to the summit of the pinnacle. Belay from rappel slings. A 60m rope rappel will get you to the bottom of a gully to the east. From there, walk north across a slab and gain a bushy gully which leads back to the base of the route. With a 50m rope, two rappels (you may need to leave a sling on the second) or some scary downclimbing will be necessary.

Note: once finished with the chimney, there are a number of other alternatives to the original route. One can climb either of two south-facing, 5.8-5.9 cracks and finish on the summit ridge. Or, rappel to the west or east of the chimney (two ropes are helpful). There are several nests of slings in the gully to the west (and a new bolt anchor atop the first pitch of Backflip can be reached after one rap). There is also a 2-bolt anchor on the ledge to the south of the block that caps the chimney.

Protection

Consider this climb runout without Big Bros. There are a couple of places where you can place large Camalots - I had a #4, #4.5, and a #5 (old sizes). With the addition of a couple of Big Bros (which Gillett recommends), the climb would be safe. Bring a standard rack to #3.5 Friend otherwise.

Photos