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Routes in The Bookmark

37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backflip T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bellyflop T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Between The Sheets T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bookmark OW T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cave Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coleman's Complex T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of No Return T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dead in Bed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Side T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fantasy Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Goose, The T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Inside Straight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Joy and Tribulation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Klingon (with direct start) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Manhole Cover T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marginal Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Original Fantasy Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Penis Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plan A T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rhythm Method T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Romulan Territory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Screamin' Eagles S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Seams Like A Dream T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skid You Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sojourn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Son of a Pitch T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Star Trek T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Time Machine T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Twiggy's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Virgin Spring T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wigglin' Fingies T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 937 total · 7/month
Shared By: jason seaver on Mar 3, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

Decent climbing in the lower crack leads to a brief, but stout, battle in the clean and enjoyable OW. Easier and dirtier wideness leads to the top from where you can scramble down right.

This cutting-edge free climb was redpointed on the second ground-up attempt, after returning a year after the first attempt with the proper wide gear.

As far as I can tell this is a first ascent, but it's hard to believe Snively or Westbay or some other hardman didn't saunter up it in flip-flops decades ago. But I guess it's beilevable that they just never bothered, as well. So, I'll post it here as the Bookmark OW, and try to think of a name if no one else claims it. It's definitely a pitch worth doing if you enjoy the wide cracks.

Location

This pitch is on the lowest slab on the Bookmark, where the approach trail reaches the cliff. From where the trail hits the crag, beneath the route Rusty’s Pillars, go right 40-50 feet to where a large hard-leaning pine tree grows close to the cliff. Behind the tree find a right angling crack line that leads to a gaping offwidth crack.

Protection

Standard rack with a few big pieces. One #5 Friend and two #6 Friends would be optimal I think.

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