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Routes in The Bookmark
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37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Backflip T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Bellyflop T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Between The Sheets T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Bookmark OW T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Cave Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Coleman's Complex T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Crack of No Return T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dead in Bed T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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East Side T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fall Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fantasy Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Goose, The T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Inside Straight T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Joy and Tribulation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Klingon (with direct start) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Manhole Cover T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Marginal Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Original Fantasy Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Penis Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Plan A T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rhythm Method T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Romulan Territory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Screamin' Eagles S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Seams Like A Dream T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sidewinder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Skid You Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sojourn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Son of a Pitch T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Star Trek T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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Time Machine T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Twiggy's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Virgin Spring T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Wigglin' Fingies T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,667 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | jason seaver on Mar 3, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Partial Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/21/24
Details
From the Denver Post 7/21/24: some of the raptor closures have been lifted, officials announced.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
Decent climbing in the lower crack leads to a brief, but stout, battle in the clean and enjoyable OW. Easier and dirtier wideness leads to the top from where you can scramble down right.
This cutting-edge free climb was redpointed on the second ground-up attempt, after returning a year after the first attempt with the proper wide gear.
As far as I can tell this is a first ascent, but it's hard to believe Snively or Westbay or some other hardman didn't saunter up it in flip-flops decades ago. But I guess it's beilevable that they just never bothered, as well. So, I'll post it here as the Bookmark OW, and try to think of a name if no one else claims it. It's definitely a pitch worth doing if you enjoy the wide cracks.
This cutting-edge free climb was redpointed on the second ground-up attempt, after returning a year after the first attempt with the proper wide gear.
As far as I can tell this is a first ascent, but it's hard to believe Snively or Westbay or some other hardman didn't saunter up it in flip-flops decades ago. But I guess it's beilevable that they just never bothered, as well. So, I'll post it here as the Bookmark OW, and try to think of a name if no one else claims it. It's definitely a pitch worth doing if you enjoy the wide cracks.
Location
This pitch is on the lowest slab on the Bookmark, where the approach trail reaches the cliff. From where the trail hits the crag, beneath the route Rustys Pillars, go right 40-50 feet to where a large hard-leaning pine tree grows close to the cliff. Behind the tree find a right angling crack line that leads to a gaping offwidth crack.
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