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Routes in The Bookmark

37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backflip T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bellyflop T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Between The Sheets T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bookmark OW T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cave Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coleman's Complex T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of No Return T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dead in Bed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Side T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fantasy Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Goose, The T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inside Straight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Joy and Tribulation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Klingon (with direct start) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Manhole Cover T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marginal Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Original Fantasy Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Penis Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plan A T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rhythm Method T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Romulan Territory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Screamin' Eagles S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Seams Like A Dream T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skid You Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sojourn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Son of a Pitch T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Star Trek T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Time Machine T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Twiggy's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Virgin Spring T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wigglin' Fingies T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Bill Forrest and Don Briggs, 1966
Page Views: 825 total, 7/month
Shared By: James Beissel on May 26, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is probably the easiest way to get to the Upper Terrace on Bookmark Pinnacle, but the climbing is low quality and awkward. Scramble up the descent gully on the north side of the pinnacle until roping up becomse prudent. Climb up to the top of the gully and look for two cracks splitting the north side of the Upper Terrace. The left crack is a hand crack, the right crack is an offwidth. Jam up the handcrack try to avoid the bushes and guano.

From the Upper Terrace you can either climb the summit blade as a second pitch (reccommended) or rap off from the anchor on Time Machine.

Rappelling from the chockstone in the chimney between the Upper Terrace and the summit blade is not reccomended.

Location

This route is located high in the descent gully on the north side of Bookmark Pinnacle.

If going to the summit, descend as for East Side, otherwise it appears to be possible to rappel from the anchors of Time Machine on the east side of the Upper Terrace.

Protection

Standard rack, pro to 3"

Photos

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This route is very hard to find. In fact, I never found it.

We got to the lower terrace, via a shallow finger crack that can be see from the far right side of the bottom of the buttress, about 40 feet up and around the corner from the start of East Side. From the lower terrace, we could not find any 5.7 way up to the upper terrace. Therefore, we had no clue about this cave route, and I think we did a line that is not documented.

As it was, the shallow crack was a little sketchy and difficult. Run-out and quite a character builder, maybe about 5.7 (not quite 5.8 but a tough 5.7). Sep 17, 2014