Connect with Facebook
Joy and Tribulation
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R
Avg: 3.5 from 49
votes
Routes in The Bookmark
|
|
37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Backflip T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
|
|
Bellyflop T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Between The Sheets T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Bookmark OW T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
|
|
Cave Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Coleman's Complex T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Crack of No Return T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Dead in Bed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
East Side T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Fall Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Fantasy Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Goose, The T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Inside Straight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Joy and Tribulation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
|
|
Klingon (with direct start) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Manhole Cover T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Marginal Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Original Fantasy Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Penis Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Plan A T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Rhythm Method T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
|
|
Romulan Territory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Screamin' Eagles S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Seams Like A Dream T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Sidewinder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
Skid You Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Sojourn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
|
|
Son of a Pitch T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
|
|
Star Trek T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
|
|
Time Machine T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Twiggy's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Virgin Spring T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Wigglin' Fingies T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Mayrose and O'Herrick, 1970 |
| Page Views: | 5,998 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Sofranko on Aug 10, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: 2022 Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)-nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)-nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
Begin up around the corner to the left from the start of Melvin's Wheel at a prominent, left-angling crack.
P1 Climb the crack (and the face below it 5.7) for about 40 feet until it is possible to do a steep move or two up to the right (5.8) and around the corner onto the face. Work into and up a left-facing corner and belay.
P2 Climb up to the ancient bolt, and then head up the slab a bit. I got a couple decent but not totally bomber TCUs in a flaring crack. Then, with your feet at the level of the TCUs, work right across the slab (5.9) and into an easy crack system. Follow this all the way up to the large ledge. Move the belay over to the bottom of the obvious steep chimney.
P3 Climb up past a severely mangled fixed pin and into the chimney. Squeeze past the bottom of the wide slot on the left to a stance, the step right across the chimney to a great finger crack. Stem and finger lock your way up to the roof, which is passed on the left side. Continue to the bolted rap anchor (around the corner to the left at the top).
P3 is a fantastic, steep, and intimidating lead. Solid for the grade, strenuous, and fun. Mix this with the Original Fantasy Ridge to bypass the dicey 5.9 on P2.
P1 Climb the crack (and the face below it 5.7) for about 40 feet until it is possible to do a steep move or two up to the right (5.8) and around the corner onto the face. Work into and up a left-facing corner and belay.
P2 Climb up to the ancient bolt, and then head up the slab a bit. I got a couple decent but not totally bomber TCUs in a flaring crack. Then, with your feet at the level of the TCUs, work right across the slab (5.9) and into an easy crack system. Follow this all the way up to the large ledge. Move the belay over to the bottom of the obvious steep chimney.
P3 Climb up past a severely mangled fixed pin and into the chimney. Squeeze past the bottom of the wide slot on the left to a stance, the step right across the chimney to a great finger crack. Stem and finger lock your way up to the roof, which is passed on the left side. Continue to the bolted rap anchor (around the corner to the left at the top).
P3 is a fantastic, steep, and intimidating lead. Solid for the grade, strenuous, and fun. Mix this with the Original Fantasy Ridge to bypass the dicey 5.9 on P2.
14 Comments