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Joy and Tribulation
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R
Avg: 3.5 from 41
votes
Routes in The Bookmark
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37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Backflip T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Bellyflop T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Between The Sheets T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Bookmark OW T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Cave Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Coleman's Complex T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Crack of No Return T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dead in Bed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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East Side T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fall Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fantasy Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Goose, The T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Inside Straight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Joy and Tribulation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Klingon (with direct start) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Manhole Cover T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Marginal Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Original Fantasy Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Penis Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Plan A T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rhythm Method T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Romulan Territory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Screamin' Eagles S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Seams Like A Dream T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Skid You Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sojourn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Son of a Pitch T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Star Trek T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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Time Machine T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Twiggy's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Virgin Spring T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Wigglin' Fingies T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Mayrose and O'Herrick, 1970 |
| Page Views: | 4,699 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Sofranko on Aug 10, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Season raptor closures
Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Description
Begin up around the corner to the left from the start of Melvin's Wheel at a prominent, left-angling crack.
P1 Climb the crack (and the face below it 5.7) for about 40 feet until it is possible to do a steep move or two up to the right (5.8) and around the corner onto the face. Work into and up a left-facing corner and belay.
P2 Climb up to the ancient bolt, and then head up the slab a bit. I got a couple decent but not totally bomber TCUs in a flaring crack. Then, with your feet at the level of the TCUs, work right across the slab (5.9) and into an easy crack system. Follow this all the way up to the large ledge. Move the belay over to the bottom of the obvious steep chimney.
P3 Climb up past a severely mangled fixed pin and into the chimney. Squeeze past the bottom of the wide slot on the left to a stance, the step right across the chimney to a great finger crack. Stem and finger lock your way up to the roof, which is passed on the left side. Continue to the bolted rap anchor (around the corner to the left at the top).
P3 is a fantastic, steep, and intimidating lead. Solid for the grade, strenuous, and fun. Mix this with the Original Fantasy Ridge to bypass the dicey 5.9 on P2.
P1 Climb the crack (and the face below it 5.7) for about 40 feet until it is possible to do a steep move or two up to the right (5.8) and around the corner onto the face. Work into and up a left-facing corner and belay.
P2 Climb up to the ancient bolt, and then head up the slab a bit. I got a couple decent but not totally bomber TCUs in a flaring crack. Then, with your feet at the level of the TCUs, work right across the slab (5.9) and into an easy crack system. Follow this all the way up to the large ledge. Move the belay over to the bottom of the obvious steep chimney.
P3 Climb up past a severely mangled fixed pin and into the chimney. Squeeze past the bottom of the wide slot on the left to a stance, the step right across the chimney to a great finger crack. Stem and finger lock your way up to the roof, which is passed on the left side. Continue to the bolted rap anchor (around the corner to the left at the top).
P3 is a fantastic, steep, and intimidating lead. Solid for the grade, strenuous, and fun. Mix this with the Original Fantasy Ridge to bypass the dicey 5.9 on P2.
Lyons, CO
P3 is a fantastic crack pitch. Steep and sustained with great pro. This pitch is pushing 5.9, IMO. Jun 14, 2004
Lakewood
Lakewood
Westminster, Colorado
Anyone know where is the Alpinisten Chimney? Jul 16, 2006
Boulder
Fort Collins CO
Golden
Boulder, CO
Following Luke's line, you can barely get all the way from the ground to the flat talus field below the chimney in 1 pitch with a 70m rope (placing sparse pro with long runners through the easy parts at the start), making it a 2 pitch route. Jul 6, 2014
Boulder, CO
Longmont, CO
Austin, TX
We were unsuccessful in navigating the descent described. Found anchors at summit, but they're nowhere near where you naturally finish the last (stem) pitch. Scrambled up the choss ribs to a tree right in front of the top-most giant boulder stack. ~ 15' rap to saddle. We walked ~ 100-150' E down to a block slung with several good looking cord & webbing slings right behind a tree. 2 rope rapped down passed terrain that can be navigated on foot but really sucks. From there, a chill scramble back to base of the wall and back up to J&T.
Looked a long time for rap rings described that are supposed to take you W and right back down to J&T. ?? Oct 4, 2017
Estes Park, CO
One can rap to third class terrain with a single 70m, but the pull is notorious for getting ropes stuck. It's better to stop at an intermediate anchor at about 80ft, then rap again to the ground.
As for P3 of J&T - bad ass! The rock quality isn't as good as Conads, but traffic has cleaned this up to be a must-do for the grade. You can access P3 by scrambling up the rappel gully and climbing a short 5.7ish corner on the right to the alcove at its base. Oct 12, 2017
Bend, OR