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Original Fantasy Ridge
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.5 from 16
votes
Routes in The Bookmark
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37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Backflip T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Bellyflop T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Between The Sheets T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Bookmark OW T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Cave Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Coleman's Complex T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Crack of No Return T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dead in Bed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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East Side T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fall Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fantasy Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Goose, The T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Inside Straight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Joy and Tribulation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Klingon (with direct start) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Manhole Cover T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Marginal Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Original Fantasy Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Penis Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Plan A T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rhythm Method T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Romulan Territory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Screamin' Eagles S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Seams Like A Dream T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sidewinder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Skid You Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sojourn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Son of a Pitch T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Star Trek T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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Time Machine T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Twiggy's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Virgin Spring T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Wigglin' Fingies T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Covington |
| Page Views: | 6,295 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Sofranko on Aug 11, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Season raptor closures
Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Description
All guidebooks that I've seen say to start Fantasy Ridge with the first two pitches of Joy and Tribulation. However, Fantasy Ridge was first climbed by starting just to the left of Melvin's Wheel. The original start is basically ignored by the guides (for some unknown and probably not very good reason.) Since we had just done JaT, we decided to do the original Fantasy Ridge, and ended up climbing the best two pitches of 5.6 that I've done at Lumpy Ridge.
The pitch two crack is readily visible if you step back from the base of MW. It is the prominent crack just left of the top of the first itch of MW.
Begin just left of Melvin's Wheel in an unappealing chimney. This is just down to the right of the start of JaT. The chimney is actually surprisingly fun with stemming and jamming, and protects well. Climb up to a horizontal handcrack and follow it right to the next crack system. Follow this up to where it comes very close to MW. Shortly above this point is a small ledge, possibly with a bail sling. You can belay here, but I climbed up a bit more to where the you need to step right to the main crack, and set a hanging belay.
Follow the stellar crack all the way to the top of the second pitch of JaT. This pitch is fantastic. It is loonnng and is definitely the best pitch of the grade that I've done at Lumpy. A fist-sized cam or two will come in handy at the brief wider section, and the upper part is sewn up with nuts.
There are a couple ways to finish this climb. The most obvious is to continue with Fantasy Ridge (5.9). You can also hop up to the big ledge and climb the last pitch of Joy and Tribulation (5.8). Or, if you're up to it, there is always Between the Sheets (11d). I would imagine that it wouldn't be too complicated to go past the obvious JaT chimney and get into the descent gully. There is a sling rap anchor right there that will deposit you just a short scramble from the bottom of the Left Book.
Having done both starts to Fantasy Ridge, I'd have to say that the original start has much more quality climbing. I'm including this as a separate route because if a descent into the gully leading to the Left Book can be worked out (or if there is already a descent from the large ledge), it would be the best route of the grade I've done at Lumpy (and you wouldn't have to deal with the crowds on the Left Book.
The pitch two crack is readily visible if you step back from the base of MW. It is the prominent crack just left of the top of the first itch of MW.
Begin just left of Melvin's Wheel in an unappealing chimney. This is just down to the right of the start of JaT. The chimney is actually surprisingly fun with stemming and jamming, and protects well. Climb up to a horizontal handcrack and follow it right to the next crack system. Follow this up to where it comes very close to MW. Shortly above this point is a small ledge, possibly with a bail sling. You can belay here, but I climbed up a bit more to where the you need to step right to the main crack, and set a hanging belay.
Follow the stellar crack all the way to the top of the second pitch of JaT. This pitch is fantastic. It is loonnng and is definitely the best pitch of the grade that I've done at Lumpy. A fist-sized cam or two will come in handy at the brief wider section, and the upper part is sewn up with nuts.
There are a couple ways to finish this climb. The most obvious is to continue with Fantasy Ridge (5.9). You can also hop up to the big ledge and climb the last pitch of Joy and Tribulation (5.8). Or, if you're up to it, there is always Between the Sheets (11d). I would imagine that it wouldn't be too complicated to go past the obvious JaT chimney and get into the descent gully. There is a sling rap anchor right there that will deposit you just a short scramble from the bottom of the Left Book.
Having done both starts to Fantasy Ridge, I'd have to say that the original start has much more quality climbing. I'm including this as a separate route because if a descent into the gully leading to the Left Book can be worked out (or if there is already a descent from the large ledge), it would be the best route of the grade I've done at Lumpy (and you wouldn't have to deal with the crowds on the Left Book.
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