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Routes in The Bookmark

37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backflip T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bellyflop T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Between The Sheets T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bookmark OW T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cave Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coleman's Complex T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of No Return T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dead in Bed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Side T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fantasy Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Goose, The T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inside Straight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Joy and Tribulation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Klingon (with direct start) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Manhole Cover T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marginal Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Original Fantasy Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Penis Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plan A T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rhythm Method T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Romulan Territory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Screamin' Eagles S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Seams Like A Dream T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skid You Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sojourn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Son of a Pitch T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Star Trek T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Time Machine T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Twiggy's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Virgin Spring T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wigglin' Fingies T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,614 total, 19/month
Shared By: Mark Morehouse on Mar 21, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This route is on Bookmark Pinnacle, which is just east of the Bookmark. Follow the base of the Bookmark to the east. The route starts in the obvious right facing dihederal on the far east side of the formation. Climb the crack (5.7) up and follow it to your left until you get to a small ledge and climb a short wide section to belay on a large ledge. From the ledge head up the crack on the right side of the wall above. Reaching this crack requires an exposed traverse from the left. You wouldn't want to fall here (big ledge you just belayed on), but if you can climb the crack above you should be ok. Head up the crack. Short hard section with good hands and plenty of gear (8+). You may want to put the tape gloves on, but it's a short section. From the top of the crack head up and left into a chimney and the on to the narrow ridge of the pinnacle. Follow this to the top. Easy, but exposed climbing in a cool setting to the summit. This is a fun section and you will be on the summit by yourself (no one else will fit) with good views of climbers on the book. There aren't many summits like this around Lumpy! Rap off the backside (1 rope) and scramble around the east side to the base.

Protection

Standard Rack plus extra pieces in the #2 & #3 Camalot Range. 2 long pitches, so bring enough gear.
Zeffe  
First pitch is a beauty and probably a solid 55 meters if you want to reach the large ledge. Do not skimp on your rack in the #0.75-#3 range. I had doubles from 0.75-2 plus a #3 and placed every damn piece of it on pitch one. I wasn't sewing it up terribly either. There's a ~15 ft wide section on P1 that you could toss a #5 in if you want to feel very safe.

Partner led 2nd; the initial crux is pretty burly if you ask me. High feet off of a big fist crack. The rest of P2 is airy and PG13 gear. Do watch your foot placements on the exposed finish to P2; there was at least one flake on climber's right that felt like it could break loose. A fall on this portion of the route would be really dramatic for either the leader OR the follower. I wouldn't take a new climber on this portion. Leader should protect as well as possible on this, but the gear is bad.

Amazing position on the top; cool views of the other climbing. Descent is a bit of of pain with a rope butterfly-backpacked due to chimneys. After the rap with a 60m, you can chimney down about 20 ft and find another rap station off of a tree that is to skier's right. (You might make it here directly with a 70m rope.) I used this to avoid the remaining ~40 ft of 5th class chimneys which would have sucked with a rope. A bit tedious but safer for sure. Jun 19, 2017
The first pitch is an absolutely amazing 5.7 pitch. It takes you to the lower terrace, where you can actually rap off if you have double ropes (we left a rap sling and rap ring around a giant block).

So for anyone looking for a wonderfully iconic Lumpy climb in the 5.7 grade, do this first pitch! It's got a tough crack, a tricky off-width section, and then this flared flake/crack that is simply delicious. It protects well, but be sure to bring big gear, plenty of alpine draws, and plenty of gear because it really stretches to approximately 180 feet. Sep 17, 2014
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.9
This is a great route; a hidden gem that should be climbed by everyone who is competent at Lumpy 5.9.

Pro: Standard rack plus doubles on #1, #2, and #3 Camalots, and a #3.5 Camalot. Bring a #4 or #4.5 Camalot if you want pro in the wide crack on the first pitch. Hybrid Aliens are useful for the flared cracks on the second-pitch summit fin.

The first pitch starts out in a right-facing corner with a hand crack. There is some grass and vegetation in the crack, but the jams are solid and the rock is good. After 50 feet, the corner dog-legs left and you are confronted with a 20'-long wide crack that goes at 5.6. I got in a marginal #4 Camalot for pro; a #4.5 would have been better. If you don't have big pro, be prepared to run it out. You can get a good #2 Camalot when the wide crack narrows at the top. After this, more great hand jams in the corner lead to a big ledge. I set up a belay and brought my partner up. We then moved the belay 30' left to the base of the second pitch. The #4 Camalot came in handy as a belay anchor here.

The second pitch starts out with an unprotected bulging face and a traverse left (protected by a #1 Camalot) to the start of the hand crack. It may also be possible to approach the crack by angling in from the left. Once at the crack, be prepared for strenuous Lumpy 5.9 hands and fist for the next 20 feet. Two #3 Camalots and a #2 Camalot are useful for pro in this crux section.At the top of the hand/fist crack, a fun and easy traverse left leads to the summit fin, a thin blade of rock that strikes directly to the summit of Bookmark Pinnacle. The climbing is a bit runout but 5.7 at most. Hybrid Aliens are useful for pro in the flaring cracks. The summit fin is exciting, airy and unlike anything else I've climbed at Lumpy.

A rappel from the summit with a 60m rope takes you to a second rap station; a second short rappel takes you to the walk-off ledge.

This is a great way to end the day after doing a longer route in the Book area. Jul 19, 2005
Cale Csizmadi
Colorado Springs
5.8+
Cale Csizmadi   Colorado Springs
5.8+
Really fun route! Do yourself a favor and give this climb a try, you'll have fun. This climb offers tons of great veiws of other [Lumpy] classics. In itself this climb is a classic because there is not another climb I've done like it at [Lumpy] The exposed last pitch is wonderful and it really tops off a good day of climbing. Sep 7, 2004
Colin Coulson
  5.8+
Colin Coulson  
  5.8+
It is truly a shame that this pinnacle is so shadowed by the surrounding monoliths on all sides. If this route topped the Owls or the Book it would easily be a candidate for "50 Classics".The initial pitch is great hands to fun off-fists/layback. Topping out the first pitch leaves you on a great perch. If the belay is moved left between the large flake and the main rock (after bringing up the second) it positions you directly below the steep crux crack. The gear is great and the view is better.

C.C. Apr 6, 2004
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Errett Allen wrote on 9/16/2002:"One of the short rappels down the [Bookmark Pinnacle] chimneys could also use an extra triple runner and lock-link."

I added a triple 1-inch webbing runner and rap ring to this anchor on 8/24/03. Aug 28, 2003
Brice W
 
Brice W  
 
One more thing... a 60M rope is just long enough to get you all the way down to where you can easily walk off. With a 50, you'd have to either downclimb a chimney section or maybe do another short rap. Jun 23, 2003
Brice W
 
Brice W  
 
As of 6/22/03, the rap anchor at the top of the pinnacle was good. There were a couple of slings, a 7mm cord, and a 11mm piece of rope (sheathed with a piece of tubular webbing). The hardware on the anchor was a quick link and a non-locking biner.

Great, varied climbing. The end of the last pitch is exposed and a bit run out, but the climbing is moderate. Jun 23, 2003
The rap anchor on top could use some maintenance. Right now its just two old ratty slings with a single steel locking link. Someone should take an extra triple length runner and link to fix it up. Better yet, a double bolt and chain rig would make things nice. One of the short rappels down the chimneys could also use an extra triple runner and lock-link. Sep 16, 2002