Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,220 total · 19/month
Shared By: Mark Morehouse on Mar 21, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This route is on Bookmark Pinnacle, which is just east of the Bookmark. Follow the base of the Bookmark to the east. The route starts in the obvious right facing dihederal on the far east side of the formation. Climb the crack (5.7) up and follow it to your left until you get to a small ledge and climb a short wide section to belay on a large ledge. From the ledge head up the crack on the right side of the wall above. Reaching this crack requires an exposed traverse from the left. You wouldn't want to fall here (big ledge you just belayed on), but if you can climb the crack above you should be ok. Head up the crack. Short hard section with good hands and plenty of gear (8+). You may want to put the tape gloves on, but it's a short section. From the top of the crack head up and left into a chimney and the on to the narrow ridge of the pinnacle. Follow this to the top. Easy, but exposed climbing in a cool setting to the summit. This is a fun section and you will be on the summit by yourself (no one else will fit) with good views of climbers on the book. There aren't many summits like this around Lumpy! Rap off the backside (1 rope) and scramble around the east side to the base.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Rack plus extra pieces in the #2 & #3 Camalot Range. 2 long pitches, so bring enough gear.