Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unreported
Page Views: 3,875 total · 23/month
Shared By: Luke Clarke on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

Look for an obvious, left-facing corner a few yards west of Marginal Line. Straightforward chimney/laybacking with good face holds leads to more strenuous offwidthing. There are some helpful holds on the arete about midway if you want to turn around in the crack, but you can also just thrash on through with your right side in until you get to a nice fist-size crack. One more 5.9 move gets you over a fun roof to a friendly, finger crack leading up and left. This makes for a more interesting start to Romulan Territory than Marginal Line, less technical but far more sustained.

Protection

Up to the #4 Camalot with doubles above the #2 for comfort

Photos

JPVallone  
 
WOW!!! All you 5.9 hardmen saddle up for this, and prove your worth at the 5.9 grade. A must for the Lumpy Offwidth circuit. While your there and you have the big gear, be sure to check out the Penis Chimney to round out some wide 5.9 cragging. The gear is bomber throughout, but save some finger size cams or nuts and a few draws for the top out crack over the roof. Aug 25, 2004
justin dubois
Estes Park
justin dubois   Estes Park
Swing into a lieback! Aug 26, 2004
climber73
Fort Collins, CO
 
climber73   Fort Collins, CO
 
This rating seems to be pretty in-line with Vedauwoo ratings at 5.9. Don't expect a soft grade on this one. Sep 16, 2008
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
 
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
 
Definitely a quality route, reminds me a little of Slim Pickins on Sundance and back scum on P4 of Eldo's N Edge. Like it says in comment Guideline #1 Don't be a jerk (and do this route). Aug 23, 2010
Miguel D
SLC
5.10b
Miguel D   SLC
5.10b
Maybe we didn't figure out the proper beta, but I would not recommend to a new 5.9 leader. Seemed pretty burly for the grade. More like 5.9++.

Also, I would definitely recommend double #3s and at least one #4. Some may want more. Aug 27, 2018