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Routes in The Bookmark

37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backflip T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bellyflop T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Between The Sheets T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bookmark OW T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cave Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coleman's Complex T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of No Return T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dead in Bed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Side T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fantasy Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Goose, The T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inside Straight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Joy and Tribulation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Klingon (with direct start) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Manhole Cover T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marginal Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Original Fantasy Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Penis Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plan A T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rhythm Method T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Romulan Territory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Screamin' Eagles S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Seams Like A Dream T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skid You Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sojourn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Son of a Pitch T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Star Trek T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Time Machine T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Twiggy's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Virgin Spring T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wigglin' Fingies T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unreported
Page Views: 3,566 total, 23/month
Shared By: Luke Clarke on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Season raptor closures Details

Description

Look for an obvious, left-facing corner a few yards west of Marginal Line. Straightforward chimney/laybacking with good face holds leads to more strenuous offwidthing. There are some helpful holds on the arete about midway if you want to turn around in the crack, but you can also just thrash on through with your right side in until you get to a nice fist-size crack. One more 5.9 move gets you over a fun roof to a friendly, finger crack leading up and left. This makes for a more interesting start to Romulan Territory than Marginal Line, less technical but far more sustained.

Protection

Up to the #4 Camalot with doubles above the #2 for comfort

Photos

Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
 
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
 
Definitely a quality route, reminds me a little of Slim Pickins on Sundance and back scum on P4 of Eldo's N Edge. Like it says in comment Guideline #1 Don't be a jerk (and do this route). Aug 23, 2010
climber73
Fort Collins, CO
 
climber73   Fort Collins, CO
 
This rating seems to be pretty in-line with Vedauwoo ratings at 5.9. Don't expect a soft grade on this one. Sep 16, 2008
justin dubois
Estes Park
justin dubois   Estes Park
Swing into a lieback! Aug 26, 2004
JPVallone  
 
WOW!!! All you 5.9 hardmen saddle up for this, and prove your worth at the 5.9 grade. A must for the Lumpy Offwidth circuit. While your there and you have the big gear, be sure to check out the Penis Chimney to round out some wide 5.9 cragging. The gear is bomber throughout, but save some finger size cams or nuts and a few draws for the top out crack over the roof. Aug 25, 2004