The first rappel goes down the gully to the west. Look for the bolted station just down and west from the summit.

All Locations > Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Bookmark > 37th Cog in Melvin's… (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c)

The first rappel goes down the gully to the west. Look for the bolted station just down and west from the summit.

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Jon sets up the rappel. A 70m barely gets to the ground. Linked the classic crack to a small gear anchor in an alcove for full 70m of climbing on 2-pitch ascent.

Route tracing...suggest rapping after p2, to avoid nasty OW finish.

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3.0 from 1 vote

Steph Abegg

Mar 15, 2020

“The first rappel goes down the gully to the west. Look for the bolted station just down and west from the summit.”

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Nearby Photos

Pennie Schwalm jams up the second pitch.

Mike Borkowski jamming past the roof near the top of the first pitch.

Looking down from the middle of the third pitch. Fun wideness!

Mike Borkowski working up the flared crack on the second pitch.

Ahad Sabet on the classic 2nd pitch of "Melvin's Wheel", Lumpy Ridge, CO.

This picture is taken from the west side rap station Nick describes to the north of the route. Very cool scrambling around the fins and pools. IDK if people belay P3 from here. We linked 2&3 to the ledge with a 70m and had a mini-pitch to these anchors.

My second on the summit fin. Apparently I should have kept going up to the high point on climber's right (left in this pic, as I'm looking back at the route from the bolts), but as you can see, I came straight across that face. Confusing little bit there.

Jon sets up the rappel. A 70m barely gets to the ground. Linked the classic crack to a small gear anchor in an alcove for full 70m of climbing on 2-pitch ascent.

The first rappel goes down the gully to the west. Look for the bolted station just down and west from the summit.

Route tracing...suggest rapping after p2, to avoid nasty OW finish.

At the roof on the first pitch.

Pitch 1 starts at the dead snag.

Low on the first pitch.

Dan, cleaning the 2nd pitch.

The red helmet in the middle is at the rap anchors - the pic was taken from the huge belay cave at the top of P3.

Looking down P3.

Someone sewing it.

Good advice in the comments, link P2 with the start of P3 (there is a great stance above where you can see in the photo). That way you can use a #4 for this crux and then use it again later, and skip the poor belay spot.

Another shot of the amazing 2nd pitch.... You're not tired of looking at it yet are you?<br>
This pitch would be good practice for J-Crack. Very similar flared crack but a little easier....

Beautiful 5.8 handcrack on P2.

Mike Wysuph climbing the superb second pitch of Melvin's Wheel.

All sewn up.

At a rest in the P3 OW - you can see the awesome P2 hand crack below.

Adrain bringin' up the rear.

Just over the little roof on P1.

Melvin's Wheel.

The wide, easy, upper part of the third pitch.

Climbing the first pitch.

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