The first rappel goes down the gully to the west. Look for the bolted station just down and west from the summit.

All Locations > Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Bookmark > 37th Cog in Melvin's… (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c)

The first rappel goes down the gully to the west. Look for the bolted station just down and west from the summit.

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Just over the little roof on P1.

Another shot of the amazing 2nd pitch.... You're not tired of looking at it yet are you?<br>
This pitch would be good practice for J-Crack. Very similar flared crack but a little easier....

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Steph Abegg

Mar 15, 2020

“The first rappel goes down the gully to the west. Look for the bolted station just down and west from the summit.”

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A route overlay for Fantasy Ridge, Melvin's Wheel, Romulan Territory, and Backflip.

Pennie Schwalm jams up the second pitch.

Mike Borkowski jamming past the roof near the top of the first pitch.

Looking down from the middle of the third pitch. Fun wideness!

Mike Borkowski working up the flared crack on the second pitch.

Ahad Sabet on the classic 2nd pitch of "Melvin's Wheel", Lumpy Ridge, CO.

Route tracing...suggest rapping after p2, to avoid nasty OW finish.

Low on the first pitch.

Dan, cleaning the 2nd pitch.

My second on the summit fin. Apparently I should have kept going up to the high point on climber's right (left in this pic, as I'm looking back at the route from the bolts), but as you can see, I came straight across that face. Confusing little bit there.

At the roof on the first pitch.

Pitch 1 starts at the dead snag.

The view of the first pitch of "The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel" from the base. The line starts at the dead trees and follows the crack system past the two upper, smaller trees, through the short roof, and on to the bolted belay ledge.

Looking down P3.

Beautiful 5.8 handcrack on P2.

A route overlay of Melvin's Wheel, Romulan Territory, and Backflip.

Jon sets up the rappel. A 70m barely gets to the ground. Linked the classic crack to a small gear anchor in an alcove for full 70m of climbing on 2-pitch ascent.

All sewn up.

The wide, easy, upper part of the third pitch.

Someone sewing it.

Adrain bringin' up the rear.

Mike Wysuph climbing the superb second pitch of Melvin's Wheel.

Just over the little roof on P1.

The first rappel goes down the gully to the west. Look for the bolted station just down and west from the summit.

Another shot of the amazing 2nd pitch.... You're not tired of looking at it yet are you?<br>
This pitch would be good practice for J-Crack. Very similar flared crack but a little easier....

This picture is taken from the west side rap station Nick describes to the north of the route. Very cool scrambling around the fins and pools. IDK if people belay P3 from here. We linked 2&3 to the ledge with a 70m and had a mini-pitch to these anchors.

Good advice in the comments, link P2 with the start of P3 (there is a great stance above where you can see in the photo). That way you can use a #4 for this crux and then use it again later, and skip the poor belay spot.

Climbing the first pitch.

Melvin's Wheel.