Pitch 1 starts at the dead snag.

All Locations > Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Bookmark > 37th Cog in Melvin's… (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c)

Pitch 1 starts at the dead snag.

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This picture is taken from the west side rap station Nick describes to the north of the route. Very cool scrambling around the fins and pools. IDK if people belay P3 from here. We linked 2&3 to the ledge with a 70m and had a mini-pitch to these anchors.

Route tracing...suggest rapping after p2, to avoid nasty OW finish.

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2.5 from 2 votes

Steph Abegg

Mar 15, 2020

“Pitch 1 starts at the dead snag.”

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Nearby Photos

Pennie Schwalm jams up the second pitch.

Looking down from the middle of the third pitch. Fun wideness!

Mike Borkowski jamming past the roof near the top of the first pitch.

Mike Borkowski working up the flared crack on the second pitch.

Ahad Sabet on the classic 2nd pitch of "Melvin's Wheel", Lumpy Ridge, CO.

My second on the summit fin. Apparently I should have kept going up to the high point on climber's right (left in this pic, as I'm looking back at the route from the bolts), but as you can see, I came straight across that face. Confusing little bit there.

The first rappel goes down the gully to the west. Look for the bolted station just down and west from the summit.

Jon sets up the rappel. A 70m barely gets to the ground. Linked the classic crack to a small gear anchor in an alcove for full 70m of climbing on 2-pitch ascent.

This picture is taken from the west side rap station Nick describes to the north of the route. Very cool scrambling around the fins and pools. IDK if people belay P3 from here. We linked 2&3 to the ledge with a 70m and had a mini-pitch to these anchors.

Pitch 1 starts at the dead snag.

Route tracing...suggest rapping after p2, to avoid nasty OW finish.

Dan, cleaning the 2nd pitch.

At the roof on the first pitch.

Low on the first pitch.

The red helmet in the middle is at the rap anchors - the pic was taken from the huge belay cave at the top of P3.

At a rest in the P3 OW - you can see the awesome P2 hand crack below.

The wide, easy, upper part of the third pitch.

Beautiful 5.8 handcrack on P2.

Someone sewing it.

Mike Wysuph climbing the superb second pitch of Melvin's Wheel.

Melvin's Wheel.

Adrain bringin' up the rear.

Looking down P3.

Route Overlays for some routes on The Bookmark and Bookmark Pinnacle.

Good advice in the comments, link P2 with the start of P3 (there is a great stance above where you can see in the photo). That way you can use a #4 for this crux and then use it again later, and skip the poor belay spot.

Another shot of the amazing 2nd pitch.... You're not tired of looking at it yet are you?<br>
This pitch would be good practice for J-Crack. Very similar flared crack but a little easier....

Just over the little roof on P1.

All sewn up.

Route Overlays for some routes on The Bookmark and Bookmark Pinnacle.

Climbing the first pitch.