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Routes in Primo Wall

Battle With a Bush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breakfast Club S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
City Slickers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crying Flyboys S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Doomsday Birthday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eternal Recurrence S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Flying Child S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flying Cowboys S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grim Aura S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Groan Up S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Halle-Bop S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hangman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hooves! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Inner Gorilla S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Killer Pillar S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Less Happy Fun Time S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mildage S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mirthmobile S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moving Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Portrait in Flesh S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Portraits of Gorillas S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Primetime To Shine S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Primeval S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Problem Child S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Public Play S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Public Solitude S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Public Suck Shine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Relative To Standing S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
River Run S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Shine S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Squeeze Play S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Squeezing My Will to Live S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Suburban Cowgirls S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Sucking My Will to Live S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sucking My Will to Squeeze S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Super Happy Fun Time S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Suspended Sentence S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tater Tot S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport
FA: Alan Nelson, 1990
Page Views: 4,428 total, 21/month
Shared By: Ramin Jamshidi on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Private land Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Short but stout, this is a slightly overhung route with somewhat powerful moves and not much of a rest. I won't divulge the beta, but know that it's not just an overhang haul - it requires some careful balance.

Protection

3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with quicklinks. Third bolt is drawn incorrectly in the Rolofson guidebook; you can't see it from the ground, but it's just over the lip of the ledge. To prevent horrendous abrasion of your rope, clean on rappel.

Photos

Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.12a
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
  5.12a
Go for it, just be sure and put a steel carabiner at the bottom of the chain, no aluminum, please! May 14, 2017
Aaron Furman  
 
God, I want to put a perma-chain on that lip! May 14, 2017
drewhouser
  5.12a
drewhouser  
  5.12a
V4...mantle isn't bad, if you're into that sort of thing. Aug 10, 2015
DPug
  5.11c/d
DPug  
  5.11c/d
Didn't feel like a 12 to me. Fell on the mantle during my flash attempt, the mantle definitely felt like the crux to me, but then again I suck at mantling. A boulder grade of V3 seems more appropriate for this route. Sep 10, 2013
Gneiss Yeti
Denver, Colorado
  5.12a
Gneiss Yeti   Denver, Colorado
  5.12a
The moves on this route are super fun. Would be classic if it was a little longer. Amazing finger pocket up high that only nature could create. Do it! Jun 11, 2013
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Short but great. Worth doing for sure even though the Clear Creek guidebook gives it no stars. The mantle alone deserves a star in itself and will make you smile.... Oct 18, 2012
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
  5.12a PG13
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
  5.12a PG13
If it weren't for the opening and closing ledges, this would be pretty epic: the movement through the middle is a blast (though short-lived). Aug 8, 2012
Dave J  
Felt V4 to me. Jul 9, 2011
tcamillieri
Denver
5.11c
tcamillieri   Denver
5.11c
Pocket is not chipped. Jan 9, 2010
I could maybe see V3, I felt V4 was fair. Wish this could really be bouldered out... getting down would not be fun, though. Dec 31, 2009
Luke Childers
  5.12a
Luke Childers  
  5.12a
Looks like old Darth Jables didn't take his meds today!! We all know this line is more like a three bolt V1-a/b with a five foot long 5.8+c/d toss to gain the lip of what resembles a truck stop-sized, marble, table top. I give it stars!! Fun line. Dec 18, 2009
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
 
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
 
V3. Dec 16, 2009
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
 
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
 
I have no idea why Mabe's guidebook gives this no stars. I've climbed plenty of zero star routes, and this is definitely not one of them. Other than the awkward mantle at the start, the moves are really fun and the rock is great. Well worth doing despite the short length. Sep 26, 2009
dan scales
Denver, CO
  5.12a
dan scales   Denver, CO
  5.12a
Good line! Short but powerful off mostly good holds (minus the top mantle). Great climb if you're breaking into 12. Only my second 12a and it went down first go. Aug 28, 2009
Luke Childers
  5.12a
Luke Childers  
  5.12a
It has been many years since I had climbed this line, but I remembered just how much I do love this line. Yes, it's short but the moves are fun and it's a great warm-up option on this steep and difficult wall. It's also a great grade for those breaking into the 12 grade and I have seen the line bring much satisfaction to those starting to push that grade. Bottom line...it's a nice line. Aug 21, 2009
Davis Benz
Golden
Davis Benz   Golden
Is the pocket chipped? Seemed too good to be true. Aug 16, 2009
sean connors  
 
Sam, I poop out better 12s than that! Just kidding. Good send. Dec 13, 2006
Sam Benedict
Denver, CO
  5.12a
Sam Benedict   Denver, CO
  5.12a
This was the first 12a that I actually sent. It seems to be a good one for breaking into the grade. Not as glorious as it could be, being as short as it is. But whatever, it's still a 12a in my book. The setting up to go to the pocket and the tricky mantle certainly warrant the grade. Dec 11, 2006
Erik Durgin
  5.12a
Erik Durgin  
  5.12a
Great little boulder problem. Definitely worth doing if you are in the area. I agree with the V4/V4+ rating Sep 27, 2006
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.12a
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
  5.12a
Length schmength... size doesn't matter... err... What I mean is that you better have the moves and stamina if you want to get off this route... 12a! ;-) Apr 20, 2006
chris deulen
Castle Rock
  5.12a
chris deulen   Castle Rock
  5.12a
Just because it's short doesn't mean it's not difficult. No one sandbagged "The Fly" because it was two bolts. I think a boulder rating would be more accurate in this circumstance (though still quite high ball); in this case probably V4/V4+. Aug 13, 2004
bb
  5.11c
bb  
  5.11c
Since this route is so short, I didn't feel like this climb deserved a 5.12 rating. The juggy two finger pocket out left is an amazing hold! Jan 23, 2004
Starting low off the ground to the right of the starting ledge and the first bolt improves the route. A series of tricky moves off the ground gets to the first bolt and makes the route longer and more continuous. Dec 18, 2002