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Routes in Primo Wall

Battle With a Bush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breakfast Club S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
City Slickers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crying Flyboys S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Doomsday Birthday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eternal Recurrence S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Flying Child S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flying Cowboys S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grim Aura S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Groan Up S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Halle-Bop S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hangman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hooves! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Inner Gorilla S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Killer Pillar S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Less Happy Fun Time S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mildage S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mirthmobile S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moving Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Portrait in Flesh S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Portraits of Gorillas S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Primetime To Shine S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Primeval S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Problem Child S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Public Play S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Public Solitude S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Public Suck Shine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Relative To Standing S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
River Run S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Shine S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Squeeze Play S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Squeezing My Will to Live S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Suburban Cowgirls S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Sucking My Will to Live S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sucking My Will to Squeeze S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Super Happy Fun Time S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Suspended Sentence S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tater Tot S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Alan Nelson, 1991
Page Views: 2,919 total, 14/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on May 6, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Private land Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Moving Out starts in a shallow corner system at the right end of Primo Wall just above the slabs. This route starts hard with some very in-obvious fingery moves in the corner. After no more than 10 or 12 feet the routes settles back for several reasonable moves. However, the first 10 ft may be the crux and probably more like 5.12a/b than 5.12a splitting hairs, I know). Slip out of the dihedral on some full-hand blocks to get a good stance before leading off into the second 5.12 crux. This sequence reminded me of The Crystal Tower route, Quartz Sports. It is a lot more delicate than it is powerful, and the feet leading into an undercling crux are pretty slender. Haul out of the undercling onto some Thank-God jugs, a few clips on moderate terrain, and the anchor. Two stars for sure. The climbing is tricky, fingery, powerful, and continuous. Personally, I get on Moving Out almost every time I go to Primo Wall. I'd pour Alan's beer myself for this fine addition.

Protection

QD only. This 50 foot route needs just half a dozen draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
I put semi-permadraws on bolts 2-6 today. I plan to take them down as soon as I send the route or give up. I'll leave the added Mussys at the anchors.

If hanging the draws or eventually removing them is going to keep you up at night worrying about the future of American climbing, just send me a PM, and I'm sure we can work something out.

Edited 10/16/17

Finally sent, so draws are removed.

Great route, get on it! May 23, 2017
noah gostout
Iqaluit, Nunavut
noah gostout   Iqaluit, Nunavut
I got on this route at the end of the day today, and aside from struggling, I was curious about some off route looking holds near the top. At the top of the dihedral, does the original route go up through a crimp to a jug that you can swing left from, or does it go left under the roof on the heinously over-chalked face hold (all holds up there are pretty caked with chalk I guess)? Aug 11, 2014
I am relieved to hear the cast of characters above discussing the difficulty but goodness of this route, as I go my a** handed to me on my first session. I agree this is easily the hardest 12b in the Canyon and would hold the grade almost anywhere. Really fun, difficult, and technical climbing, a most do. Sep 17, 2011
Luke Childers
  5.12b
Luke Childers  
  5.12b
Climbed on this again for the 1st time in a long time and found it to be just as great as it was then!! A fine line at its grade. It's one of my favorites for sure!!! Jan 17, 2010
Erik Durgin
  5.12b
Erik Durgin  
  5.12b
Totaly Rad!!! the most solid 12b I've done in the canyon. It was really hard for me! but I think thats because I'm bad at using my feet, so the second crux kinda turned into a heinous campus move (not recommended).
If you can, GET ON DAT SHIT. Apr 17, 2007
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12b
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12b
Excellent and sustained the whole way. I suppose I would agree that the first crux (12a) is a bit height dependent. (but hey, arent they all?) The second crux (12b) is a clever sequence of setting up to move out to the crack/lieback. Jul 8, 2005
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
I still haven't repeated this route after doing it 5 years ago and personally think it to be more like 12c. There may be a height thing involved. Oct 17, 2001
I found this route to be one of the better 12b's in the canyon. The climbing is technical, delicate, but also needs lots of power. Keep a close eye on the feet and you are well on your way to this one. Aug 5, 2001