Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Primo Wall

Battle With a Bush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breakfast Club S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
City Slickers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crying Flyboys S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Doomsday Birthday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eternal Recurrence S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Flying Child S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flying Cowboys S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grim Aura S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Groan Up S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Halle-Bop S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hangman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hooves! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Inner Gorilla S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Killer Pillar S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Less Happy Fun Time S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mildage S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mirthmobile S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moving Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Portrait in Flesh S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Portraits of Gorillas S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Primetime To Shine S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Primeval S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Problem Child S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Public Play S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Public Solitude S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Public Suck Shine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Relative To Standing S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
River Run S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Shine S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Squeeze Play S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Squeezing My Will to Live S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Suburban Cowgirls S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Sucking My Will to Live S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sucking My Will to Squeeze S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Super Happy Fun Time S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Suspended Sentence S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tater Tot S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jay van Sam, 1-13-10, 1st bolted by: Luke Childers, 12-12-09
Page Views: 3,811 total, 39/month
Shared By: Luke Childers on Dec 13, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Private land Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Continue up the upper headwall above "Suburban Cowgirls." Instead of finishing "Suburban Cowgirls" at the the large ledge, rather, you continue up on ever thinning/steepening/powerful movements that are in your face all the way to the anchors. This has great moves on really nice solid rock.

Location

This is located at the "Primo Wall" in Clear Creek Canyon. It is found in about the middle of the wall. It's a three bolt extension (I may add a fourth bolt at the extensions start) to a line called "Suburban Cowgirls." Rather than ending the line by exiting left on a large ledge found after the 3rd bolt, continue onto the upper head wall section of the wall. It's possible that this line could be as hard as 5.13b or so? Maybe harder? Maybe 12+'ish? It has good stone with fun and powerful moves. It's soon to be seen as an attractive new addition to "The Primo Wall" and its other hard lines.

Protection

6-8 draws. The anchors do not require draws, but if you like the count would be 8 draws. The gear is fixed. I may add a fourth bolt at the beginning of the proj. extension? We will see.
Hanger replaced 11/7. Killer movement up top on this thing! Nov 8, 2014
Rob Eison
Denver, CO
Rob Eison   Denver, CO
  • *Bolt head and hanger came off the next to last bolt at some point this past week and needs to be replaced. This is the bolt that takes all the whippers from the upper crux. I left the quickdraw and hanger at the base of the climb as I won't be back to Primo for another week or so to fix it.
Apr 18, 2014
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.13b
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.13b
Yo Clear Creekers; there's definitely potential to do the Flying Child link-up. You would climb the first half of Flying Cowboys to the ledge, but instead of mantling, you would traverse the lip up and left and into Problem Child just above the crux. Could be done without any extra bolts, but you'd probably want to put one in.

Hmm, now I might have to bring the drill next time I'm out there....

@adampeters: I kinda thought the same. Suburban Cowgirls on its own never really appealed to me, but for some reason as the start to Problem Child, it seems fitting and better. Haha, your khaki uniform didn't do my pictures justice! Feb 27, 2013
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Is it possible to do a "Flying Child" link? Feb 27, 2013
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.13a/b
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.13a/b
I also got on this thing the other day and found the climbing to be great! I retract my earlier comments about the start, although I still think it isn't the best route around, I don't mind it as the gateway to the fantastic upper section. Great Rock and fun moves. Feb 27, 2013
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.13b
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.13b
Nice one, Dave! Glad others are starting to give this thing a looksee; I always thought the climbing was pretty good and hard on this thing! Lemme know if you want off-the-ledge beta, I've got some pretty good tricks. Feb 26, 2013
Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
Finally got on this a few weeks back. Totally worth climbing Suburban Cowgirls (I enjoy that awkward pitch anyway). Great, hard climbing on this thing on really cool stone. Nice vision, Luke. I thought getting off the ledge was really hard! Feb 26, 2013
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.13b
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
  5.13b
3rd, 4th, or 100th ascent, it doesn't matter. I'm just happy to climb it. Sep 13, 2011
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.13b
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.13b
Oh shit nice! Well, I guess Kevin doesn't get the second ascent, but nice send and style regardless! Sep 13, 2011
Rob Eison
Denver, CO
Rob Eison   Denver, CO
Nice work, Kevin. I was certain you would put it away when I saw you on it Saturday. Hey Jay, I also saw Steve Damboise send it in the spring in impressive fashion on his second attempt, so looks like Problem Child is beginning to get some of the punishment it deserves! Sep 6, 2011
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.13b
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.13b
Hell yeah kevin, nice work! Glad this thing finally saw a second ascent! Can't wait to see some video of this beast getting slayed! Sep 3, 2011
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.13b
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
  5.13b
Finally sent! What a great route! Sep 3, 2011
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.13b
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
  5.13b
I got on this wild thing today. The first half (or SC) is actually not too bad and kinda fun, but the second half (which is Problem Child) is freaking sweet! It fires at you as soon as you leave the ledge with a nasty crux and then gets even better as you climb to the top. Aug 8, 2011
It's a great line... if you don't believe it??? What the hey... what have you to lose...? Get on it and really find out what the line is all about folks. It's just a chuck of stone right??? So, as a Jedi might say, "do or do not, there is no speculation greater than true investigation."

JUST SEND IT, PEOPLE.... May 1, 2010
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
  5.12d
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
  5.12d
The second part of the climb makes climbing 'Suburban Cowgirls' worth it. Suburban Cowgirls is balancy and takes some technique, and I think that's why most people dislike it, it's not a gimme. But, the moves on the upper wall are fun!!! Apr 22, 2010
Blake Cash
Chattanooga, TN
Blake Cash   Chattanooga, TN
There's actually room for another line of bolts on this cliff? Feb 8, 2010
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.13a/b
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.13a/b
Too bad this you have to climb the worst existing route at Primo to get to this new extension.... Don't know if it's worth it yet.... My jury is still out. Feb 5, 2010
What a great line this turned out to be!!! Fun climbing on steep technical stone. Can't wait to send this great addition to "The Primo Wall." Jan 17, 2010
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.13b
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.13b
Thanks, Luke! I'm super psyched! This is a great addition to the Primo Wall, good eye and thanks again for all the effort you put in to establish this line. I appreciate you letting me take a stab at it while it was still a project, too, it means a lot. I guess no job, wife, kids or life in general does have its advantages.... I can climb all the f*ckin' time!

And now that it's open, I'm excited to hear what others think of the line, since I'm pretty biased about it. Jan 13, 2010
Nice work, Jay!!! That was a proud F.A. you put down!! Can't wait to complete this stellar new line. Hell yea!!! Jan 13, 2010