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Routes in Primo Wall

Battle With a Bush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breakfast Club S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
City Slickers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crying Flyboys S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Doomsday Birthday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eternal Recurrence S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Flying Child S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flying Cowboys S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grim Aura S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Groan Up S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Halle-Bop S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hangman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hooves! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Inner Gorilla S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Killer Pillar S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Less Happy Fun Time S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mildage S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mirthmobile S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moving Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Portrait in Flesh S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Portraits of Gorillas S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Primetime To Shine S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Primeval S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Problem Child S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Public Play S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Public Solitude S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Public Suck Shine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Relative To Standing S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
River Run S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Shine S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Squeeze Play S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Squeezing My Will to Live S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Suburban Cowgirls S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Sucking My Will to Live S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sucking My Will to Squeeze S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Super Happy Fun Time S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Suspended Sentence S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tater Tot S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport Fixed Hardware (8)
FA: Ken Trout, 1992
Page Views: 10,538 total, 51/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Private land Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a fingery, technical wall. Back to back thin cruxes lead to a final hard move at the chains. It is stellar.

Location

It is two routes right of Killer Pillar.

Protection

Six bolts.
I took the Petzl Spirit dogbone/biner off of the permadraw before the steep finish as it was quite worn and sharp. The owner can find it at the base of the climb. I wouldn't reuse that biner. Remember to check the fixed hardware when on routes. Nov 4, 2017
5.12 "c." As in: "C, I fell off again. Guess I'll just keep on trying." Sep 5, 2016
Nolan Robertson
  5.12b
Nolan Robertson  
  5.12b
Fantastic route, good boulder problems separated by great rests. Not stopping to clip bolt 4 was a good choice! Aug 5, 2016
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12c
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12c
Heard that the flake went down with some elbow grease. I too have always started to the left anyway, isn't that the OG, intended start? What do the holds look like where that sucker was? Jan 23, 2015
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.12c
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.12c
RIP, giant death flake! Hope you guys weren't around when it went. I always started from the left because I was terrified of that thing. I wonder how this affects Grim Aura (not that I have any business on that route). Jan 22, 2015
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
  5.12c
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
  5.12c
The start now begins slightly to the left of the first bolt. Right hand start is good bit harder, since the large flake fell off. We transformed it into a decent bench on the ground. Jan 17, 2015
drewhouser
  5.12c
drewhouser  
  5.12c
I'm only a couple years into climbing and surely haven't climbed at a vast array of crags, so my statement may not carry much weight with some...however...this may be the best climb I have ever climbed. Dec 13, 2014
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
  5.12c
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
  5.12c
Lead bolts two, three, and four were upgraded from Rawl 3/8" plated three piece sleeve to SS glue-ins. See the fixed hardware section for details. All three of the original holes were re-used. Patched old holes next to lead bolts one, five and six. Tightened all mechanical bolt hangers. Sadly, the anchor bolt hangers were very loose and exhibit typical thread damage but are still safe.

Note, a friend mentioned they thought the new third bolt (i.e., a glue-in) was bent or some how damaged. This is decidedly not the case rather the design of the bolt. That bolt is greater then 1/2" in diameter and would literally hold a truck - bomb proof. Apr 27, 2014
Hang on to those bolts too, and we'll get some tests run. Apr 27, 2014
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
This route is just plain fantastic! Bullet hard stone, great moves, and kind of a cool setting to just hang. The final moves on this route will bring a very big smile to your face for sure. Do this route! Thanks to the person who just equipped this with all new bomber permadraws. Looks great, all of them are the prefect length for clipping, and they should last awhile even though this route sees a ton of traffic. Kudos! Aug 22, 2012
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12c
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12c
I've never NOT seen draws on this route in the 6 years I've been climbing at Primo, so it seems logical to me that the superior Perma-draws would be well suited here. If draws are always going to be on that route, wouldn't it make sense that the nicest Permadraws would be the safest option? Thanks for rebolting and adding the draws, Action Fund! Jul 25, 2012
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.12c
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.12c
Why does this route need perma draws? There is nothing on this route where clipping would constitute a crux. Jul 25, 2012
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.12c
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.12c
Branching out of the southeast, I love it!
Thanks, guys! Jul 24, 2012
We rebolted and replaced the project draws with Climb Tech perma draws. We left the project draws with Adam in Golden, CO. If these were yours, please get in touch with us and we will be happy to give these back to the rightful owner.

Thanks,
ActionFund@yahoo.com Jul 24, 2012
One of my favorite routes in CCC. Aug 9, 2007
louis
Albuquerque
  5.12d
louis   Albuquerque
  5.12d
It sucked my will, held my draws hostage, but went after a ruthless twenty or so tries. I think this is one of the most physical and beta intensive 12s in clear creek. For a short climber there are a ton of options for both the lower crux and the upper redpoint crux - at the first crux between bolts three and four, with the left hand at the lower left pinch, standing directly up and grabbing the ear with the right hand saves a couple of moves. For the final two throws at the top (tough at 5'6'') a heel mantle, to a quick rest, moving the right hand out right to a crimp, then throwing out up and left with the left hand to the summit chalk-sloper hold seems to reduce the distance of two brutal deadpoints/throws. I add these ideas only because Greg Hand's beta helped me think about the route and opened my eyes to figuring out new things as well. Cheers and good luck. Aug 1, 2007
Jesse Ryan
  5.12c
Jesse Ryan  
  5.12c
I think this is on par to other 12c's in the canyon if you get the right sneaky beta. I did moves similar to what Greg Hand describes -- not 11 moves before I moved my right hand though -- nice work man! In particular, the left hand thumb gaston w/ right foot heel hook is key. Never thought I'd utter that sentence, but it's true. I'm 5'9" ish, and my friend Ken is 6', and it worked for him. Try the trick techy beta, and she shouldn't feel too bad. Aug 10, 2006
The only legit 12c?

Have you done Y2k? Presto?

There are several. Oct 11, 2004
I sent this route today, and what a great route. It might be one of the best CCC routs that I have ever done. I have to agree with Chris. This is probly the only legit 12c in the canyon. Thats for a tall person. For anyone under 5'8" this route would be much harder. I really hate to put a grade on thing, but for the sake of the short people, not myself 12c/d. Get on it it is good. Oct 7, 2004
chris deulen
Castle Rock
  5.12d
chris deulen   Castle Rock
  5.12d
I give it 12d to be consistent with Clear Creek. This may be the only legitimate 12c in the canyon. Flying Cowboys is easier, Ten Digit is easier, Big Dog is way easier, The Great Escape is easier. I'd say it's even comparable to Sonic Youth (though the latter is a better climb). This wall is very akin to Rumney climbing, as are the ratings (save Flying Cowboys). Aug 7, 2004
Sorry Rich, this ones three stars all the way! Jul 30, 2004
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.12c
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.12c
Sorry, typo-ed the stars. Two stars at least. Jul 13, 2004
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.12c
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.12c
A few years ago, and in the space of less than an hour, I saw at least three very different solutions to both cruxes. So the beta would seem to be pretty flexible. The nicest ascent looked almost delicate. Jul 13, 2004
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
I was cleaning up my office last week (to prepare for my retirement early next year), and I found this rather amusing beta I made when I redpointed this route in 1995. It was soon after this that my back went out and my ACL tore, so this was about my last hard route.The reason I wrote down the beta was I remember there was such a wild sequence of moves once my right hand was on a crimp. I counted about 11 moves before moving my right hand again. I never had the physical skills to just power through hard routes. I was usually able to do them with "Smoke & Mirrors" tricks.

The description starts from the 3rd bolt:

From hip scum rest, clip 3rd bolt with left hand.(Preset bolt with 1 foot draw).Right hand on bucket, left hand on pinch flake.Left foot on bucket around left. Right foot on slab where hip scum was. Shift right hand to undercling.Match left foot on hip scum slab, left hand up high to crimp/gaston. Hold it with left thumb. Right foot to heel hook.From this position, a right hand clip can be made if a double draw is in place. Match right hand fingers on left thumb crimp.

Now count the number of moves before the right hand moves again!

1. Reach left hand to good pocket.2. Keep left foot where it is, release right heel hook and position it above left foot.3. Move left foot around corner to hold.4. Move right foot to heel hook.5. Position left foot underneath heel hook onto crack.6. This allows left hand release up to side pull crimp feature.7. Right foot onto slab.8. Left foot high step into pocket.9. Lean on left foot and reposition left hand up again onto hard-to-see, but good, left hand crimp.10. Move right foot to either heel hook where right hand is, or on edge higher and closer to body.11. This allows right hand to go up high to good horizontal.

Whew!!!

Rest with either left foot in pocket or right foot in pocket.

Now for the upper crux.

From big left hand layback, reach far right and make clip.Re-position feet, stem right foot far right onto chalked edge way down right. Right hand is far right on good edge, leaving room for left hand to match. Left hand "drive by" to crimp at chest level.Now match hands. Switch feet with left backstep onto ticked edge.Right heel hook on ledge, finding place for big toe undercling.Pull with leg to reach right hand high. Match left, and surf right to flake. (Hopefully, you can clip long draw on anchor).Left foot backstep on ledge and reach left hand high to sloping edge.Mini-rose right hand to sloper left of left hand.reach up 8 inches to left hand good crimp.Right hand up over top to finishing hold.Clip anchors with left hand! Jul 12, 2004
I'm confused about this route. Has a new one been placed between "sucking my will" and public solitude, or to the the right of sucking? Or am I just reading the guide book wrong? Apr 1, 2004
Great route! Do it and definitely try to get a long draw on the third to hang just below the lip. Sep 19, 2003
willem  
Use a long draw or sling that will let your rope hang to the left of the edge. Jul 29, 2003
Tricky, powerful, and fun- a masterful route. Oct 2, 2002
The third bolt, while unfortunate to hang from, is well placed to be able to clip it on lead, and actually have it protect the first crux move. I would recommend not hanging from it too much (to save your rope) and being careful with your foot placement once you climb through this crux as you can easily step on the rope. Jun 20, 2001
The 3rd bolt needs to be fixed. It will eventually shred your rope if you hang to many times and twist you fingers in half. Jun 13, 2001