Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Rich Purnell
Page Views: 3,019 total · 14/month
Shared By: Quinn Stevens on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


99 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details
Access Issue: Private land Details

Description

This is the leftmost route of the trio of tens on the Primo Wall. The well-featured route is surprisingly pumpy with predominantly slopers for handholds, yet plenty of options for feet. The route is well-protected which makes it a good first lead for the 10/11- aspiring leader, as well as a good warmup for the real business that the Primo Wall has to offer.

It may not be the best climb on sunny days with hot temperatures.

Protection

A four bolt route with a two bolt anchor.

Photos

There is no way this route is 10a by even the severest grading standard. It's probably harder than many 11a routes in Clear Creek and Boulder Canyon. So, give it 10c at least. Jan 1, 2001
I'd agree with about 5.10c. May 29, 2001
Quinn Stevens
Denver, CO
  5.10c
Quinn Stevens   Denver, CO
  5.10c
I think the grade I gave this was a typing error!?! 10c is fine, I'll fix it. Jul 12, 2001
Good job.... I don't like to grade routes until others climb it and we can make a consensus... thanks, I felt it 5.10c myself but not any harder at all. Aug 18, 2001
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
I'd go with 5.10c as well, with the caveat for the 5.10 climber that there is a very in-obvious and sneaky move to the left just about the time things start to feel dicey. What looks like straight up, ain't. This was probably at the third bolt. Aug 18, 2001
chris deulen
Castle Rock
 
chris deulen   Castle Rock
 
The Primo Wall has some of the best climbs in the canyon, as well as some of the worst. This one can suck my butt for all I care. Apr 14, 2006
MAKB
Denver, CO
  5.10d
MAKB   Denver, CO  
  5.10d
The Clear Creek Canyon sport climber's guide 2006 says 10d. Jun 24, 2008
Caleb Phillips
Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Caleb Phillips   Boulder, CO
  5.10d
10d if you don't bail left at the third bolt or bail right just low of the anchors. Otherwise, pretty sustained climbing and the reachy-slopery crux is cool. Jun 8, 2009
Crag Dweller
New York, NY
Crag Dweller   New York, NY
Fun, challenging climb. Be mindful of taking a fall when getting to the 3rd bolt. Too much slack and you may smack your feet pretty hard on the left trending rail that starts the climb. Not quite too much slack and the edge of the overhanging section above the rail may take some skin off your shin, as it did mine.

This one is a scenario where a hard catch may be the best option. Jun 29, 2012
Gneiss Yeti
Denver, Colorado
  5.10d
Gneiss Yeti   Denver, Colorado
  5.10d
Awful route to climb when hot out. Black rock + sun + 90 degrees = slime. Jun 11, 2013