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Routes in Primo Wall

Battle With a Bush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breakfast Club S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
City Slickers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crying Flyboys S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Doomsday Birthday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eternal Recurrence S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Flying Child S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flying Cowboys S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grim Aura S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Groan Up S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Halle-Bop S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hangman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hooves! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Inner Gorilla S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Killer Pillar S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Less Happy Fun Time S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mildage S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mirthmobile S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moving Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Portrait in Flesh S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Portraits of Gorillas S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Primetime To Shine S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Primeval S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Problem Child S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Public Play S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Public Solitude S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Public Suck Shine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Relative To Standing S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
River Run S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Shine S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Squeeze Play S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Squeezing My Will to Live S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Suburban Cowgirls S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Sucking My Will to Live S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sucking My Will to Squeeze S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Super Happy Fun Time S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Suspended Sentence S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tater Tot S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
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Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Rich Purnell
Page Views: 2,953 total · 14/month
Shared By: Quinn Stevens on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Private land Details

Description [Edit]

This is the leftmost route of the trio of tens on the Primo Wall. The well-featured route is surprisingly pumpy with predominantly slopers for handholds, yet plenty of options for feet. The route is well-protected which makes it a good first lead for the 10/11- aspiring leader, as well as a good warmup for the real business that the Primo Wall has to offer.

It may not be the best climb on sunny days with hot temperatures.

Protection [Edit]

A four bolt route with a two bolt anchor.

Photos

There is no way this route is 10a by even the severest grading standard. It's probably harder than many 11a routes in Clear Creek and Boulder Canyon. So, give it 10c at least. Jan 1, 2001
I'd agree with about 5.10c. May 29, 2001
Quinn Stevens
Denver, CO
 
Quinn Stevens   Denver, CO
 
I think the grade I gave this was a typing error!?! 10c is fine, I'll fix it. Jul 12, 2001
Good job.... I don't like to grade routes until others climb it and we can make a consensus... thanks, I felt it 5.10c myself but not any harder at all. Aug 18, 2001
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
I'd go with 5.10c as well, with the caveat for the 5.10 climber that there is a very in-obvious and sneaky move to the left just about the time things start to feel dicey. What looks like straight up, ain't. This was probably at the third bolt. Aug 18, 2001
chris deulen
Castle Rock
 
chris deulen   Castle Rock
 
The Primo Wall has some of the best climbs in the canyon, as well as some of the worst. This one can suck my butt for all I care. Apr 14, 2006
MAKB
Denver, CO
  5.10d
MAKB   Denver, CO  
  5.10d
The Clear Creek Canyon sport climber's guide 2006 says 10d. Jun 24, 2008
Caleb Phillips
Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Caleb Phillips   Boulder, CO
  5.10d
10d if you don't bail left at the third bolt or bail right just low of the anchors. Otherwise, pretty sustained climbing and the reachy-slopery crux is cool. Jun 8, 2009
Crag Dweller
New York, NY
Crag Dweller   New York, NY
Fun, challenging climb. Be mindful of taking a fall when getting to the 3rd bolt. Too much slack and you may smack your feet pretty hard on the left trending rail that starts the climb. Not quite too much slack and the edge of the overhanging section above the rail may take some skin off your shin, as it did mine.

This one is a scenario where a hard catch may be the best option. Jun 29, 2012
Gneiss Yeti
Denver, Colorado
  5.10d
Gneiss Yeti   Denver, Colorado
  5.10d
Awful route to climb when hot out. Black rock + sun + 90 degrees = slime. Jun 11, 2013