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Routes in Primo Wall

Battle With a Bush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breakfast Club S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
City Slickers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crying Flyboys S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Doomsday Birthday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eternal Recurrence S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Flying Child S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flying Cowboys S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grim Aura S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Groan Up S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Halle-Bop S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hangman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hooves! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Inner Gorilla S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Killer Pillar S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Less Happy Fun Time S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mildage S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mirthmobile S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moving Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Portrait in Flesh S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Portraits of Gorillas S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Primetime To Shine S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Primeval S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Problem Child S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Public Play S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Public Solitude S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Public Suck Shine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Relative To Standing S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
River Run S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Shine S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Squeeze Play S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Squeezing My Will to Live S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Suburban Cowgirls S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Sucking My Will to Live S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sucking My Will to Squeeze S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Super Happy Fun Time S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Suspended Sentence S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tater Tot S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Hardly
Page Views: 2,176 total, 38/month
Shared By: Jay Samuelson on Mar 6, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Private land Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a LINK-UP: climb the first half of Flying Cowboys to the ledge, but instead of mantling, traverse left along the lip into the top half of Problem Child.

Location

Start with Flying Cowboys.

Protection

7 draws + 2 bolt anchor. A longer draw for #4 and #6 can be helpful but is not necessary.

Photos

Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
 
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
 
For those curious, the right-of-the-bolt-line beta still goes as well, and it didn't seem to change the grade. The second to last clip is slightly harder and the move out of the position is maybe more precarious, but overall it didn't really seem to change the route all that much. Besides the fact that the right hand pinch was just an awesome hold to grab! Apr 24, 2017
MattL
Boulder, CO
  5.13b
MattL   Boulder, CO
  5.13b
It still goes after the break (end of March, 2017). It seems that the path of least resistance is now left of the last two bolts instead of right of the last two bolts. Felt like 5.12 climbing to a V7 crux without much rest, IMO. No glue necessary! Apr 23, 2017
DPug
  5.12+
DPug  
  5.12+
Amazing route but way soft in my book. Feels like 12a into 12b so maybe 12+? Or maybe it's just easier for taller folks? Nov 4, 2016
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
  5.13b
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
  5.13b
13b in my book. Harder than Squeeze Play and all the other 13a linkups here I have done. Regardless, a fun flowy route with a heart breaking move at the top.... Oct 8, 2016
Adam Stewart
  5.13a/b
Adam Stewart  
  5.13a/b
Really enjoyed this one- has to be one of the best 13s in Clear Creek. I personally felt this is significantly harder than Squeeze Play. I'd maybe say low end 5.13b. Aug 16, 2015
mlloyd
denver
  5.13a
mlloyd   denver
  5.13a
An excellent link-up. Good work, fellas! I think it's well graded at 13a. Aug 23, 2013
I agree with Jay. The line is really good and very clean. Although I did not get on it, I gave a catch and found it to be a very good link-up, and I'm pumped to try it. Nice send today, Jay. Well done. Mar 6, 2013
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
 
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
 
Granted this is a link-up, but I think it's better than either Flying Cowboys or Problem Child. You avoid the ledges on both of those routes, and instead you get consistent, good movement all the way to the top of the wall. Mar 6, 2013