Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Luke Childers
Page Views: 2,159 total · 20/month
Shared By: Luke Childers on Dec 20, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


39 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details
Access Issue: Private land Details

Description

Climb up a right-leaning ramp/slab while working the overhung wall to gain some nice jugs. After clipping the 2nd bolt move up with your left hand to gain a sloper, and then the climb is on as you bust out right to a huge jug. Work the steep face and arete past the (crux) section (bolts 4/5). Finish by pulling up on to the final head wall to clip the chains on your right.

This line offers delightful dynamic movements up a steep face and arete. This would make for a great warm-up for some of the more challenging routes at the wall as of current.

Location

This is located on the right side of "The Primo Wall." Currently it is the route is the line just after "Moving Out."

Protection

5 draws. 2 for the anchor, but as of today the chains currently have clips on them.
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.11a/b
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.11a/b
Interesting route on good rock. Steep with pretty good holds, tricky around the 3rd bolt. Nice to have an additional warm up at Primo instead of jumping from 10s to 12s and up! Jan 3, 2010
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.11-
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.11-
Great addition to the primo wall luke. Fun jug hauling with a couple of moves that aren't gimmie's. A great warm up as it's slightly overhanging and delivers a bit more pump than the other warm ups. Definitely going to be added into the routine from now on. Jan 9, 2010
jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
The moves heading out right when leaving the ledge are fun, but moving out far left at this point is forced. I had trouble figuring out whether the route actually moved out left, or was better for the bolt placements. Either way moving straight up was just as easy to clip the bolts at the top. I went up the route both ways just to see the intention of the route. How about putting some colored tape on the holds next time! J/K of course. Jul 23, 2011
Luke Childers
  5.11-
Luke Childers  
  5.11-
Dude.. what..!? The gym tap showing where the route went fell off!! I'll have to retape this line!! LOL!! Thxs for the input. Yeah, the line is contrived but it was inteded to be a nice jugy warm up.... Yeah, baby. Aug 20, 2011
Clark Sperry
5.10c/d
Clark Sperry  
5.10c/d
The hanger on the 4th bolt was missing yesterday. The bolt is still there though. So now it's only 3 bolts and chains. Oct 8, 2013
aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
The hanger on the 4th bolt is still missing as of today. Dec 6, 2015
Aaron Furman
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.10c/d PG13
Aaron Furman   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.10c/d PG13
There seems to be a hanger missing. There's a bolt, and it doesn't look broken. Does anyone know if this was an intentional removal (to add some spice) to what seems likes a 10+ climb? May 14, 2017
Red
Tacoma, Toyota
 
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
 
The fourth bolt has a hanger again.

I got on this climb for the first time last weekend, and I too came across the missing hanger on the fourth bolt. I looked here and see that it has been missing for close to five years and seemingly without a reason for it being stripped. So, I went out a couple days later and replaced the hanger and nut. Clip away, y'all! Jul 20, 2018