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Routes in Primo Wall

Battle With a Bush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breakfast Club S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
City Slickers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crying Flyboys S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Doomsday Birthday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eternal Recurrence S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Flying Child S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flying Cowboys S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grim Aura S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Groan Up S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Halle-Bop S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hangman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hooves! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Inner Gorilla S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Killer Pillar S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Less Happy Fun Time S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mildage S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mirthmobile S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moving Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Portrait in Flesh S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Portraits of Gorillas S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Primetime To Shine S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Primeval S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Problem Child S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Public Play S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Public Solitude S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Public Suck Shine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Relative To Standing S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
River Run S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Shine S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Squeeze Play S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Squeezing My Will to Live S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Suburban Cowgirls S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Sucking My Will to Live S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sucking My Will to Squeeze S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Super Happy Fun Time S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Suspended Sentence S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tater Tot S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Luke Childers
Page Views: 2,031 total, 21/month
Shared By: Luke Childers on Dec 20, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Private land Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Climb up a right-leaning ramp/slab while working the overhung wall to gain some nice jugs. After clipping the 2nd bolt move up with your left hand to gain a sloper, and then the climb is on as you bust out right to a huge jug. Work the steep face and arete past the (crux) section (bolts 4/5). Finish by pulling up on to the final head wall to clip the chains on your right.

This line offers delightful dynamic movements up a steep face and arete. This would make for a great warm-up for some of the more challenging routes at the wall as of current.

Location

This is located on the right side of "The Primo Wall." Currently it is the route is the line just after "Moving Out."

Protection

5 draws. 2 for the anchor, but as of today the chains currently have clips on them.
Aaron Furman
  5.10c/d PG13
Aaron Furman  
  5.10c/d PG13
There seems to be a hanger missing. There's a bolt, and it doesn't look broken. Does anyone know if this was an intentional removal (to add some spice) to what seems likes a 10+ climb? May 14, 2017
aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
The hanger on the 4th bolt is still missing as of today. Dec 6, 2015
Clark Sperry
5.10c/d
Clark Sperry  
5.10c/d
The hanger on the 4th bolt was missing yesterday. The bolt is still there though. So now it's only 3 bolts and chains. Oct 8, 2013
Dude.. what..!? The gym tap showing where the route went fell off!! I'll have to retape this line!! LOL!! Thxs for the input. Yeah, the line is contrived but it was inteded to be a nice jugy warm up.... Yeah, baby. Aug 20, 2011
jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
The moves heading out right when leaving the ledge are fun, but moving out far left at this point is forced. I had trouble figuring out whether the route actually moved out left, or was better for the bolt placements. Either way moving straight up was just as easy to clip the bolts at the top. I went up the route both ways just to see the intention of the route. How about putting some colored tape on the holds next time! J/K of course. Jul 23, 2011
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.11-
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.11-
Great addition to the primo wall luke. Fun jug hauling with a couple of moves that aren't gimmie's. A great warm up as it's slightly overhanging and delivers a bit more pump than the other warm ups. Definitely going to be added into the routine from now on. Jan 9, 2010
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.11a/b
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.11a/b
Interesting route on good rock. Steep with pretty good holds, tricky around the 3rd bolt. Nice to have an additional warm up at Primo instead of jumping from 10s to 12s and up! Jan 3, 2010