Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Matt Bolt, 5/15/09 (possibly?)
Page Views: 2,127 total · 17/month
Shared By: Matt Bolt on May 15, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details
Access Issue: Private land Details

Description

So, I was going to climb in the Primo area a few week ago, and I notice this little crack above the Nomad's Cave. I decided to haul my butt and my rack up here to give this a thing a ground up attempt with no idea what I was getting into. Turns out this crack is awesome though a little on the short side. From the abundance of loose rock and vegetation, my guess is that my send was a first ascent; however, people have been climbing here in CCC for longer than I have been alive, so I reluctant to name this. This route is a good opportunity for any crack (climbing) addict to get a fix.

This slightly overhanging crack starts out as slightly big hands and narrows down to thin hand at the top. There is a second crack that begins about 3/4 up on the right that is fist size. The approach is a bit of work, but IMO this climb is worth it.

Location

This climb is located in a slightly overhanging dihedral above the Nomad's Cave. It is about 50 ft. towards the road from Mildage.

To approach this climb, scramble up some 4th class rock to the left of the 5.10 warm-ups at the Primo Wall (same approach as Mildage). If standing under the bolts of Mildage, follow a ledge going left from Mildage and once you turn the corner look up and you are there. (See picture for better description) There is currently a bush growing at the base of the crack, you may have to do some bushwacking to get to the start of the climb.

Protection

I placed 1 x #0.75, 1 x #2, 2 x #3, 1 x #4 Camalots (some might prefer more, some might prefer less). YOU WILL WANT TO ANCHOR YOUR BELAYER IN ALSO, SO BRING SOME SMALLER GEAR FOR THAT AS WELL. NO BOLTS AT THE TOP but you can build an anchor with some hand and fist size pieces to belay up your second.

Descent:

You can rap off of the Mildage anchors (with caution). Or you can hike down past the large tree and to the (climber's) left. But you will want to have your second bring up all of your gear from the base, seeing that you can not get back to the base from the walk-off.

Photos

Matt Bolt
Lakewood
  5.9
Matt Bolt   Lakewood
  5.9
So I left this route unnamed for now because I don't want to go around renaming routes that the hardmen of old probably just called a warm up. If anyone has any more information on this climb, feel free to let me know and I will definately update it on here. This climb was just too good to pass up, first ascent or 1000th ascent.

A little obscure and out of the way, but that's my style. And it beats driving all the way to Boulder. Look forward to some more additions to the trad climbing selection in CCC after this summer. I've got nothing to do all summer (but climb) and a rack that need some attention. May 16, 2009
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
I say name it, Matt.
Great effort!! May 16, 2009
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Hi Matt,
Just a suggestion that you leave the bush at the base of the corner alone. I have a hunch that the route, which I agree is a great line, will never get enough traffic to merit tearing out a living thing, however seemingly worthless or obscure. Just a thought. May 16, 2009
Matt Bolt
Lakewood
  5.9
Matt Bolt   Lakewood
  5.9
I am totally fine with leaving it. I think it just adds to the adventure (although I don't think that most people climb in CCC for the adventure). May 16, 2009
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Plenty of adventure in the canyon, just got to know where to find it.
;) May 18, 2009