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Routes in Primo Wall
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Battle With a Bush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Breakfast Club S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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City Slickers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crying Flyboys S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Doomsday Birthday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eternal Recurrence S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Flying Child S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Flying Cowboys S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Grim Aura S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Groan Up S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Halle-Bop S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hangman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hooves! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Inner Gorilla S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Killer Pillar S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Less Happy Fun Time S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Mildage S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Mirthmobile S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Moving Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Portrait in Flesh S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Portraits of Gorillas S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Primetime To Shine S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Primeval S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Problem Child S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Public Play S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Public Solitude S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Public Suck Shine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Relative To Standing S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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River Run S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Shine S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Squeeze Play S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Squeezing My Will to Live S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Suburban Cowgirls S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Sucking My Will to Live S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sucking My Will to Squeeze S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Super Happy Fun Time S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Suspended Sentence S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tater Tot S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Matt Bolt, 5/15/09 (possibly?) |
| Page Views: | 3,114 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Bolt on May 15, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Access Issue: Private Property - be aware & respectful
Details
Per Tzilla Rapdrilla: Primo is actually on private land.
Update: per Daniel Dunn, Stewardship Manager, Boulder Climbing Community ((803) 443-8822): this crag is on private property. The landowners are aware of the climbing on their property and continue to allow access for rock climbers. It is critical for long term access that everyone who climbs here is respectful and does their part to keep the crag in good shape. For more information on how to be a good steward, check out the Climber's Pact from Access Fund.
Update: per Daniel Dunn, Stewardship Manager, Boulder Climbing Community ((803) 443-8822): this crag is on private property. The landowners are aware of the climbing on their property and continue to allow access for rock climbers. It is critical for long term access that everyone who climbs here is respectful and does their part to keep the crag in good shape. For more information on how to be a good steward, check out the Climber's Pact from Access Fund.
Description
So, I was going to climb in the Primo area a few week ago, and I notice this little crack above the Nomad's Cave. I decided to haul my butt and my rack up here to give this a thing a ground up attempt with no idea what I was getting into. Turns out this crack is awesome though a little on the short side. From the abundance of loose rock and vegetation, my guess is that my send was a first ascent; however, people have been climbing here in CCC for longer than I have been alive, so I reluctant to name this. This route is a good opportunity for any crack (climbing) addict to get a fix.
This slightly overhanging crack starts out as slightly big hands and narrows down to thin hand at the top. There is a second crack that begins about 3/4 up on the right that is fist size. The approach is a bit of work, but IMO this climb is worth it.
This slightly overhanging crack starts out as slightly big hands and narrows down to thin hand at the top. There is a second crack that begins about 3/4 up on the right that is fist size. The approach is a bit of work, but IMO this climb is worth it.
Location
This climb is located in a slightly overhanging dihedral above the Nomad's Cave. It is about 50 ft. towards the road from Mildage.
To approach this climb, scramble up some 4th class rock to the left of the 5.10 warm-ups at the Primo Wall (same approach as Mildage). If standing under the bolts of Mildage, follow a ledge going left from Mildage and once you turn the corner look up and you are there. (See picture for better description) There is currently a bush growing at the base of the crack, you may have to do some bushwacking to get to the start of the climb.
To approach this climb, scramble up some 4th class rock to the left of the 5.10 warm-ups at the Primo Wall (same approach as Mildage). If standing under the bolts of Mildage, follow a ledge going left from Mildage and once you turn the corner look up and you are there. (See picture for better description) There is currently a bush growing at the base of the crack, you may have to do some bushwacking to get to the start of the climb.
Protection
I placed 1 x #0.75, 1 x #2, 2 x #3, 1 x #4 Camalots (some might prefer more, some might prefer less). YOU WILL WANT TO ANCHOR YOUR BELAYER IN ALSO, SO BRING SOME SMALLER GEAR FOR THAT AS WELL. NO BOLTS AT THE TOP but you can build an anchor with some hand and fist size pieces to belay up your second.
Descent:
You can rap off of the Mildage anchors (with caution). Or you can hike down past the large tree and to the (climber's) left. But you will want to have your second bring up all of your gear from the base, seeing that you can not get back to the base from the walk-off.
Descent:
You can rap off of the Mildage anchors (with caution). Or you can hike down past the large tree and to the (climber's) left. But you will want to have your second bring up all of your gear from the base, seeing that you can not get back to the base from the walk-off.
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