Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Matt Bolt, 5/15/09 (possibly?)
Page Views: 2,496 total · 18/month
Shared By: Matt Bolt on May 15, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Private land Details

Description

So, I was going to climb in the Primo area a few week ago, and I notice this little crack above the Nomad's Cave. I decided to haul my butt and my rack up here to give this a thing a ground up attempt with no idea what I was getting into. Turns out this crack is awesome though a little on the short side. From the abundance of loose rock and vegetation, my guess is that my send was a first ascent; however, people have been climbing here in CCC for longer than I have been alive, so I reluctant to name this. This route is a good opportunity for any crack (climbing) addict to get a fix.

This slightly overhanging crack starts out as slightly big hands and narrows down to thin hand at the top. There is a second crack that begins about 3/4 up on the right that is fist size. The approach is a bit of work, but IMO this climb is worth it.

Location

This climb is located in a slightly overhanging dihedral above the Nomad's Cave. It is about 50 ft. towards the road from Mildage.

To approach this climb, scramble up some 4th class rock to the left of the 5.10 warm-ups at the Primo Wall (same approach as Mildage). If standing under the bolts of Mildage, follow a ledge going left from Mildage and once you turn the corner look up and you are there. (See picture for better description) There is currently a bush growing at the base of the crack, you may have to do some bushwacking to get to the start of the climb.

Protection

I placed 1 x #0.75, 1 x #2, 2 x #3, 1 x #4 Camalots (some might prefer more, some might prefer less). YOU WILL WANT TO ANCHOR YOUR BELAYER IN ALSO, SO BRING SOME SMALLER GEAR FOR THAT AS WELL. NO BOLTS AT THE TOP but you can build an anchor with some hand and fist size pieces to belay up your second.

Descent:

You can rap off of the Mildage anchors (with caution). Or you can hike down past the large tree and to the (climber's) left. But you will want to have your second bring up all of your gear from the base, seeing that you can not get back to the base from the walk-off.

Photos