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Routes in Primo Wall

Battle With a Bush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breakfast Club S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
City Slickers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crying Flyboys S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Doomsday Birthday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eternal Recurrence S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Flying Child S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flying Cowboys S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grim Aura S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Groan Up S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Halle-Bop S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hangman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hooves! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Inner Gorilla S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Killer Pillar S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Less Happy Fun Time S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mildage S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mirthmobile S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moving Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Portrait in Flesh S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Portraits of Gorillas S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Primetime To Shine S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Primeval S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Problem Child S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Public Play S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Public Solitude S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Public Suck Shine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Relative To Standing S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
River Run S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Shine S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Squeeze Play S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Squeezing My Will to Live S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Suburban Cowgirls S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Sucking My Will to Live S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sucking My Will to Squeeze S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Super Happy Fun Time S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Suspended Sentence S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tater Tot S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport
FA: Alan Nelson / Kurt Smith 1990
Page Views: 1,685 total · 8/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Private land Details

Description

Breakfast Club is an interesting route with some varied moves. Climb an initial crack with insecure moves to a sloping ledge. Follow the bolts up the overhung arete until joining the final moves of the 11c route to the right. The last moves are done in the crack at the top of the arete. Staying out the the crack makes this route significantly more difficult. The moves on the arete are powerful, but quite enjoyable.

Protection

5 bolts / two bolt/chains anchor.

Photos

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I think this route best by staying out of the corner altogether with your hands. You do stem across the right foot to clip the anchors. From the left hand crimp high and the righthand undercling/arete pinch/pistol grip thingy hike the feet and go with the right hand to the arete crimp by the last bolt. Then massage the right hand to the good right hand arete jug just a little higher. Finally stem right towards the 11c and cross the left hand high along the arete just below the roof to a gaston.From this position one can clip or reach a crimp jug high to the right. No jams needed and a nicer flow than the grovel up the shared corner. Sep 19, 2003
Anyone have beta for this route? Above the sloping ledge, I was doing a mini-iron cross between two crimps... is this ridiculous? The reach up to the next left hand crimp feels 12+ easily... then the arete is all right.... Am I doing this all wrong? Aug 29, 2004
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
To get off the sloping ledge, I used left hand on the small sidepull crimp, reached right out to the arete and bearhugged to get the feet up on small edges. Left hand up to the good sidepull, then right higher up the arete. Fun burly sequence! Aug 5, 2009
Luke Childers
  5.12a/b
Luke Childers  
  5.12a/b
Ok line. The upper section is less than desirable and a fall while trying to clip to last bolt before the anchors could result in a bone crushing ledge fall.... Aug 21, 2009
chipacles
  5.12a
chipacles  
  5.12a
I have to agree with Luke Childers: This route has a scary last clip...bolt should be down at least a foot...you could clip from the same hold, but just not have to pull as much slack. Even the second bolt offers a potential groundfall if missed. Beware if you get on it.

That said, I think the upper section has nice movement and a little bit of beta to make you earn the 12. Jun 28, 2011

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