Type: Sport
FA: Alan Nelson, Annette Bunge
Page Views: 1,081 total · 4/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Aug 13, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This is the lefthand of the two big roof routes at the far right end of the Primo Wall. It shares the start with "Hangman" to the second bolt.

Where "Hangman" traverses right, continue straight up to the roof crack above. The crack contains a finger-eating lock (you'll know which finger to tape after you let this puppy chew on you), followed by a big blind reach out right for a sloping jug and a reach back left for the lip and the anchor hooks.

If you ever wanted to know what a 5.12b fingerlock feels like, this is it. Just be thankful you don't have to fish in a crummy piece of gear to protect it like they did back in the olden days.

Protection Suggest change

Five bolts to a pair of 1/2" open hooks.