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Suspended Sentence
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 2.3 from 7
votes
Routes in Primo Wall
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Battle With a Bush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Breakfast Club S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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City Slickers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crying Flyboys S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Doomsday Birthday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eternal Recurrence S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Flying Child S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Flying Cowboys S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Grim Aura S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Groan Up S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Halle-Bop S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hangman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hooves! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Inner Gorilla S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Killer Pillar S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Less Happy Fun Time S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Mildage S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Mirthmobile S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Moving Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Portrait in Flesh S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Portraits of Gorillas S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Primetime To Shine S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Primeval S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Problem Child S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Public Play S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Public Solitude S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Public Suck Shine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Relative To Standing S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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River Run S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Shine S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Squeeze Play S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Squeezing My Will to Live S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Suburban Cowgirls S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Sucking My Will to Live S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sucking My Will to Squeeze S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Super Happy Fun Time S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Suspended Sentence S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tater Tot S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Alan Nelson, Annette Bunge |
| Page Views: | 1,146 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Alan Nelson on Aug 13, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Access Issue: Private Property - be aware & respectful
Details
Per Tzilla Rapdrilla: Primo is actually on private land.
Update: per Daniel Dunn, Stewardship Manager, Boulder Climbing Community ((803) 443-8822): this crag is on private property. The landowners are aware of the climbing on their property and continue to allow access for rock climbers. It is critical for long term access that everyone who climbs here is respectful and does their part to keep the crag in good shape. For more information on how to be a good steward, check out the Climber's Pact from Access Fund.
Update: per Daniel Dunn, Stewardship Manager, Boulder Climbing Community ((803) 443-8822): this crag is on private property. The landowners are aware of the climbing on their property and continue to allow access for rock climbers. It is critical for long term access that everyone who climbs here is respectful and does their part to keep the crag in good shape. For more information on how to be a good steward, check out the Climber's Pact from Access Fund.
Description
This is the lefthand of the two big roof routes at the far right end of the Primo Wall. It shares the start with "Hangman" to the second bolt.
Where "Hangman" traverses right, continue straight up to the roof crack above. The crack contains a finger-eating lock (you'll know which finger to tape after you let this puppy chew on you), followed by a big blind reach out right for a sloping jug and a reach back left for the lip and the anchor hooks.
If you ever wanted to know what a 5.12b fingerlock feels like, this is it. Just be thankful you don't have to fish in a crummy piece of gear to protect it like they did back in the olden days.
Where "Hangman" traverses right, continue straight up to the roof crack above. The crack contains a finger-eating lock (you'll know which finger to tape after you let this puppy chew on you), followed by a big blind reach out right for a sloping jug and a reach back left for the lip and the anchor hooks.
If you ever wanted to know what a 5.12b fingerlock feels like, this is it. Just be thankful you don't have to fish in a crummy piece of gear to protect it like they did back in the olden days.
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