Type: Sport
FA: Peter Beal, 1997
Page Views: 6,445 total · 30/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details
Access Issue: Private land Details

Description

Climbs the groove and steep headwall to the right of Sucking My Will to Live. Very bouldery crux. First bolted by Kurt Smith and Mark Rolofson.

Protection

8 bolts.

Photos

Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
This route has always looked impossible to me despite once rapping down it to see if actually had any holds. I'd love to know how you move through it, Peter, since from what I can tell yours is indeed the only red point on record. Jul 13, 2001
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
  5.14a
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
  5.14a
I want to report at least one confirmed repeat by Chris Way who took 30+ tries to link the upper crux by means of a heinous toss. Way to go! Apr 15, 2002
Joe Kinder thought this was .14b yeah sounds like East Coast boys can't hang with CO crimps. Nice job, Peter. Apr 28, 2004
AC-
Joe Kinder redpointed Primetime to Shine (for the 2nd ascent), calling it .14b. Perhaps you are mistaken. Aug 8, 2008
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
  5.14a
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
  5.14a
Joe thought Shine was 14b when he first did it. Primetime came along quite a bit later. Aug 8, 2008
Luke Childers
  5.14a
Luke Childers  
  5.14a
Work this one back in 2001 and could never do it with out having to hang a few times but it's a new year and I'm feeling like I want some again!! I thought it to be a near perfect line!!! Aug 13, 2009
Luke Childers
  5.14a
Luke Childers  
  5.14a
Worked this sweet hart today and got it put to me this time around!!! Still a great line I hope to complete this fall. It's a little crazy working out the beta now that the wall is grid bolted. Years ago when I 1st tried the line I believe it was the only one on that section of wall and had not yet seen an F.A.. Still a proud line not lacking in power moves all the way to the finish. Sep 27, 2009
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
  5.14a
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
  5.14a
Fantastic and sustained. Get you bouldering on. The top is not a gimme if your stupid pumped.... Feb 26, 2016
Chris Deuto
5.14a
Chris Deuto  
5.14a
I've been working this climb for over 7 months now. Just last session I did the first crux for the first time in 7 months. I've done all the moves, so now I'm starting to give redpoint burns. So excited to do this thing, the movement and positioning of the climb were fantastic, it should be on every hardman's list in CCC. Mar 14, 2017
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
  5.14a
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
  5.14a
Just a heads-up on this climb: sometime in March/April 2017 a small but critical hold broke on the crux that changes the difficulty quite a bit. This is the small sugar cube that was often used to get to the quartz pocket/edge. This may also affect the Prime Time to Shine linkup though perhaps less. May 17, 2017
reboot
.
reboot   .
Tried the Shine crux via Prime Time today, and it's definitely harder via the popular long lock-off beta: there's still a one finger divot to crimp off of the left hand in place of the missing cube, but it does make generating momentum tougher. I'd say it impacts both routes the same way, though perhaps relatively less for Prime Time as the route has plenty of crimpy holds down low. Apr 8, 2018