Type: Sport
FA: equipped by Steve Damboise/ Peter Beal, FFA Peter Beal
Page Views: 2,300 total · 11/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on Apr 23, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details
Access Issue: Private land Details

Description

Eternal Recurrence is the route right of Primeval. Start with a difficult, short groove that leads to the big, central shelf. Sit down and rest. Then tackle the upper bulge by traversing back left to a very difficult move to the obvious rail. A technical and balancy rockover leads to the final groove and the anchors. I'm not grading this, because to me the route is really two roped boulder problems with a sit-down rest in between, the first being V9/10 and the upper being solid V10. Since others may find these sections easier, as happened with Primeval, or find a way around them, as with Shine, I won't be more specific.

(Now that this route has gone eight years without a repeat, I am upgrading it to 5.14a in the hope that it will gain more traffic and there will emerge a better consensus on the difficulty)

Protection

8 bolts/anchors.

Photos

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Does anyone know if this route has been repeated? Thanks. Jun 23, 2003
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
  5.14a
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
  5.14a
I don't think it's seen a repeat or even much work. Every time I've been up there this year there hasn't been any chalk. Jul 2, 2003
tcamillieri
Denver
tcamillieri   Denver
...or the next year, or the year after that...or after that. Sep 25, 2008
Hey Peter,
I have looked at Eternal Recurrence since before even "Shine" was bolted and always thought it to be an interesting looking line... possibly even my style.

It's a good possibility I will be over at "Primo" in the morning and I'm going to put a little chalk on that bad boy just for your efforts!!! I will let you know how it goes. Oct 31, 2009
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
  5.14a
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
  5.14a
Good luck, Luke. I think with this snow it may take a while to dry. Let me know if you need any beta. Oct 31, 2009
Peter, this route seems pretty brutal. I did the moves on the upper, but before the ledge... wow, ouch, and geez. Nice job. Apr 11, 2010
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
  5.14a
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
  5.14a
Thanks, Chris. It's a strange one. Apr 11, 2010
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
To whomever left their Petzel draws on Eternal Recurrence: I removed them the other day and put them on other routes that had worse hardware on them. If you want them back, they're on Shine and Crying Flyboys. I'm sorry if this is a huge inconvenience for you, but after they had been hanging for a year, a few of us decided they would be better served on other routes that see more traffic but have a few bad draws. But my guess is whomever draws these are will never come back and probably does not care. Mar 14, 2013
Jonathan Siegrist
his truck
 
Jonathan Siegrist   his truck
 
I have been curious about this pitch for years and finally adventured my way up it today. It was not at all straightforward climbing - both cruxes are perplexing. Personally I found the bottom half to be much harder than the upper half. Definitely worthwhile. Get to it while it has (a little) chalk on it! Oct 22, 2016