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Routes in Primo Wall

Battle With a Bush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breakfast Club S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
City Slickers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crying Flyboys S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Doomsday Birthday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eternal Recurrence S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Flying Child S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flying Cowboys S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grim Aura S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Groan Up S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Halle-Bop S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hangman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hooves! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Inner Gorilla S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Killer Pillar S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Less Happy Fun Time S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mildage S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mirthmobile S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moving Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Portrait in Flesh S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Portraits of Gorillas S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Primetime To Shine S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Primeval S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Problem Child S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Public Play S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Public Solitude S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Public Suck Shine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Relative To Standing S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
River Run S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Shine S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Squeeze Play S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Squeezing My Will to Live S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Suburban Cowgirls S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Sucking My Will to Live S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sucking My Will to Squeeze S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Super Happy Fun Time S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Suspended Sentence S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tater Tot S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Alan Nelson and Ken Trout, 1991
Page Views: 2,338 total · 11/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Private land Details

Description

Hangman is the furthest route to the right (East) on Primo Wall and starts after the slabs - just off the trail. Hangman and Suspended Sentence share the first four clips up a near vertical face with an adjacent right-facing corner. Stem the corner, move out right onto the face, and solve the first fingery 5.12 crux. This will deposit you into a horrizontal slot that defines the beginning of the roof system. Cop a rest here. The roof can be had on its left for SS or on the right for Hangman. Either way, the roof gets surprisingly steep immediately with 5.12 cruxes to the left or the right. I found the Hangman finish to be a lot less rough on the hands, perhaps a little more obvious. Hangman finishes through the roof on an open seam/flake system of lay-aways that are surprisingly powerful. These holds look huge, but in a couple of places you are working some pretty thin crimps on a steep wall. Two stars for sure for the complex moves at the start, powerful climbing, and excellent stone. Toss in another beer for Alan Nelson and his route finding skills. By the way, did I mention that the roof was steep???

Protection

QD only. This 40 ft route needs about 7 draws and you won't wish for fewer.

Photos

Really great route!! The 2nd bolt is a little out of line, so a longer draw is helpful on the 2nd and 3rd bolts to reduce some drag. Side Note: A friend of mine tried toproping this after I set it up and had an interesting, albeit hilarious, run in with the pine tree after taking a swing just below the roof. May 29, 2001
desbien
seattle,wa
desbien   seattle,wa
Fun and powerful. Neat gaston at the crux. Apr 13, 2008
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
Supposedly a hold broke on this in the roof, upping the grade substantially? Sep 26, 2009
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.12-
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.12-
I've heard the same thing. A buddy of mine was out there not long ago with some friends, and they couldn't figure out they're way past it now that the hold has broken. He thought it was at least a number grade harder now. Oct 23, 2009
ZachS00
Denver, CO
ZachS00   Denver, CO
I was on it today. I don't know what hold broke, but it's not a number grade harder than 12a/b. Mar 6, 2010
Rob Eison
Denver, CO
Rob Eison   Denver, CO
A pile of quickdraws and a daisy chain have been under Hangman for the past few weeks. I have them now. So if they're yours, pm and me and describe them and I'll get them back to you. May 2, 2014
There is an obvious chalk outline in the roof where a large hold has broken. I'm not sure this route was ever very good, but regardless it is now poop. Aug 10, 2015

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