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Routes in Primo Wall

Battle With a Bush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breakfast Club S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
City Slickers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crying Flyboys S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Doomsday Birthday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eternal Recurrence S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Flying Child S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flying Cowboys S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grim Aura S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Groan Up S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Halle-Bop S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hangman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hooves! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Inner Gorilla S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Killer Pillar S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Less Happy Fun Time S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mildage S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mirthmobile S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moving Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Portrait in Flesh S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Portraits of Gorillas S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Primetime To Shine S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Primeval S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Problem Child S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Public Play S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Public Solitude S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Public Suck Shine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Relative To Standing S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
River Run S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Shine S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Squeeze Play S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Squeezing My Will to Live S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Suburban Cowgirls S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Sucking My Will to Live S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sucking My Will to Squeeze S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Super Happy Fun Time S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Suspended Sentence S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tater Tot S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport
FA: Chris Way
Page Views: 3,241 total, 17/month
Shared By: chris way on Apr 23, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Private land Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This nine bolt route links Primeval, Shine, and Sucking.... Begin on the first three bolts of Primeval, branch left, and continue in a straight line to the anchors of Sucking My Will by passing through the middle of Shine.

Protection

Nine bolts plus anchors.

Photos

- No Photos -
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
I left my Grigri 2 (orange) with a gold Petzl Attaché biner at the base of Primo Wall on Wednesday, February 24th, 2016 somewhere between the warmups on the left hand side and Shine. Please message me if you find it.... Feb 26, 2016
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
 
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
 
Ya, it's a fun variation and easier for those of us who can't stick that move yet. May 17, 2015
Chris. T.
  5.13d
Chris. T.  
  5.13d
Thanks, Adam and Kevin!

Adam, I enjoyed hanging at the crag with you guys, and I sent just a few minutes after you left. It started raining again.

Kevin, I was under the impression that Matt's 'post-break' send also traversed left at the crux, avoiding the broken hold. I must have had tunnel vision, 'cause I didn't think to try it that way. May 17, 2015
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
 
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
 
Nice send, Chris! Ya, that move is now definitely hard and height-dependent, great job figuring it out. I am going to settle for a slightly easier variation, going left at the broken hold, instead of straight up which would make it around 13c, instead of 13d. May 17, 2015
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
Nice work, Chris! I guess we won't see you up there today :) May 17, 2015
Chris. T.
  5.13d
Chris. T.  
  5.13d
I sent this route today, using the original straight-up sequence above the crux bolt. I used what remains of the 'broken hold' and was able to make the long move to the good righthand sidepull just before joining 'Sucking'.

I'm not sure about the grade, as I've only been on a handful of routes in this range. The crux move seems a bit 'length-dependent', but I have seen it done by someone shorter than myself.

  • My crux beta*
Right hand on the broken hold, left hand on the gaston flared crack/crimp, paste the feet, and launch to the good right hand sidepull!

Grim Aura offers classic Primo climbing and deserves more traffic. May 16, 2015
jackies  
Visiting Japanese climber Toru Nakajima just did this route today. It is his first day in Colorado. Not sure what he thinks of the grade, but I will post if he shares an opinion. Has anyone else sent since Matt's post-break send? Aug 23, 2012
mlloyd
denver
  5.14a
mlloyd   denver
  5.14a
Thanks, Rob, I spent ten days putting it together between seeing you there (and getting good beta from you) and the send, kinda epic. May 31, 2012
Rob Eison
Denver, CO
  5.13c/d
Rob Eison   Denver, CO
  5.13c/d
Nice work, Matt! Haven't heard anyone else send this after the crux hold broke. I agree it probably warrants 14a now. I'm not sure I could do it now without the tooth. What remains doesn't really qualify as a hold and the alternative moves require an impressive wingspan, unfortunately one of my deficiencies. Congrats! May 31, 2012
mlloyd
denver
  5.14a
mlloyd   denver
  5.14a
Got the flailing send on this rig yesterday, without the broken/ glued/ not there crux hold. I think this route deserves 14a upgrade without that hold... but that's just my fluffing opinion. Has anyone else done this route after the hold broke? I would be curious what other people think.... Good fun. May 31, 2012
mlloyd
denver
  5.14a
mlloyd   denver
  5.14a
Today I finally completed the upper boulder problem without the broken hold that used to make this section link. It's very height-dependent and much harder than any of the 13d's I have done, perhaps 14a ... what do others think? I haven't sent the route yet, and I'm still a fair number of burns from doing it, but I was just curious. May 15, 2012
Rob Eison
Denver, CO
  5.13c/d
Rob Eison   Denver, CO
  5.13c/d
Now that I'm quite intimate with this brilliant climb, here's a more thorough description: shoot up to the third bolt on Primeval, then traverse left to the slanting jug on Shine, clipping 3 bolts along the way including the high long draw. Do the V7, core-dependent first crux of Shine, then up and a little left to the good crimp flake and clip above. Blow off the next draw only 3 feet above this tenuous rest(not worth the effort), take a deep breath and coil up for the tricky V8, length-dependent, barn-doory boulder problem up to the good rail and finish the glory moves on Sucking. This required some creative foot work found accidentally, bicycling the good flake with a right heel hook. Now, if I could just get enough sleep to stick that last move.... Jun 5, 2011
Scott Hahn
  5.13d
Scott Hahn  
  5.13d
Thanks. It is definitely the random looking bolt before you really get hammering on Primeval. Jun 25, 2006
chris deulen
Castle Rock
chris deulen   Castle Rock
I believe it's before that. Not that I've done it. But the description does say do the first 3 bolts of Primeval, then bust left (the crux is between the 4th and 5th, if I'm not mistaken). Jun 17, 2006
Scott Hahn
  5.13d
Scott Hahn  
  5.13d
Does this route do the crux of Primeval then bust left or does it go left before that??? May 12, 2006
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
[Eds. a couple negative comments were deleted here.] The route is certainly at least 13c and while it isn't the choicest climb on the wall, it's worth a run. The Primo Wall and adjacent Nomad Cave have the highest density of 5.13 and up routes outside of Rifle. Virtually everywhere else there are one or two good climbs and that's it. The reason why is that people took the trouble to add routes that others...consider a waste of time. If you don't like the climb stay off it but quit dissing others for their efforts. Try to surpass them with your own. Apr 14, 2003