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Routes in Primo Wall

Battle With a Bush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breakfast Club S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
City Slickers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crying Flyboys S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Doomsday Birthday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eternal Recurrence S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Flying Child S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flying Cowboys S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grim Aura S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Groan Up S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Halle-Bop S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hangman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hooves! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Inner Gorilla S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Killer Pillar S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Less Happy Fun Time S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mildage S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mirthmobile S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moving Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Portrait in Flesh S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Portraits of Gorillas S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Primetime To Shine S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Primeval S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Problem Child S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Public Play S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Public Solitude S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Public Suck Shine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Relative To Standing S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
River Run S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Shine S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Squeeze Play S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Squeezing My Will to Live S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Suburban Cowgirls S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Sucking My Will to Live S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sucking My Will to Squeeze S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Super Happy Fun Time S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Suspended Sentence S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tater Tot S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Peter Beal, 1998
Page Views: 2,763 total, 13/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Private land Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Another strange Primo Wall route like its neighbors Groan Up and Moving Out. Start in the corner and climb the steep arete to the left of Moving Out on sidepulls and slopers. First bolted by Kurt Smith.

Protection

5 bolts.

Photos

Michael Hasson
Sausalito, CA
Michael Hasson   Sausalito, CA
As of 11/11/17, the draws on this (especially the third clip with a dogbone dated 1995) were pretty jingus. I replaced the third one, because I was scared to even lower on it, but it might be a good idea to bring a few of your own if you're not psyched on the faded, fraying ones that are there. Nov 12, 2017
David McAllister
Denver, CO
David McAllister   Denver, CO
Hey y'all, I actually just started working this route and got the toss to the right pinky crunching hold (will tape next time), but I am wondering if I can suss some beta for the next moves. I am DEFINITELY going to skip the next draw, but was curious how y'all navigate the sequence from left hand on pinch, right hand on sloper and right heel still hooked.

I'd be super appreciative for any beta! Thanks!
Dave Mc Jul 5, 2011
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.13b
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.13b
Bart, I don't know if you finished this one off, but I would be glad to give you the best beta that I have seen and eventually sent with. I was trying some really fantastical and awkward stuff before I had the "duh" moment.... It worked out nicely. Lemme know. Mar 20, 2010
Bart Paull
Boulder, CO
  5.13b/c
Bart Paull   Boulder, CO
  5.13b/c
Can someone hook me up with some beta for this route? It's just pretty damn weird and slopey up there ... Thanks!

Update - figured this one out. Taping the right pinky was nice.

Bart Nov 8, 2009
I'm planing a repeat of this line. Should be interesting considering that a hold has broken. But it sounds like it still goes in the 13b area. Pumped to give this one a try again after all these years. Aug 21, 2009
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.13b
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.13b
I'm working this route now, its really fun. I would second Adam's comments above; bolt 4 is hard to clip and safe to skip. Feb 22, 2009
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.13b
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.13b
Even though these are old comments, I will put my two cents in here. Yes, this route still goes, and no it is not harder than 13b. This is a fairly physical route that requires some imagination at the crux. I will tell you this, the last draw is pretty hard to clip on the go, but have no fear I fell well above it when I was working this route and still didn't hit the ledge, almost, but not quite. So, If you find it hard to clip, then it is fairly safe to skip. Enjoy this route, rope bouldering at its finest! Aug 25, 2008
I did this route the other day, and wondered if anyone else thought it might me a bit harder without that hold that broke. Chris definitely thought so. Either way, it's a cool route. Mar 30, 2002
Nice Work J, what a great lil route. I havent been able to stick the toss since I broke the hold - heh. Mar 29, 2002
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
 
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
 
I just heard that Jim Redo from the BRC did this route so I guess it still goes. Mar 11, 2002
On Oct 17th I managed to break off a crucial [for me] right sidepull; it's a bit harder now. Sorry - i'm a big boy. I would like to see it go the way it stands so lets try to refrain from glue... i've had some bad experiences in the canyons due to the stuff in the past year.

thanks, -sorry- Chris Oct 22, 2001