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Routes in Primo Wall

Battle With a Bush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breakfast Club S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
City Slickers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crying Flyboys S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Doomsday Birthday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eternal Recurrence S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Flying Child S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flying Cowboys S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grim Aura S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Groan Up S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Halle-Bop S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hangman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hooves! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Inner Gorilla S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Killer Pillar S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Less Happy Fun Time S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mildage S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mirthmobile S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moving Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Portrait in Flesh S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Portraits of Gorillas S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Primetime To Shine S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Primeval S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Problem Child S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Public Play S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Public Solitude S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Public Suck Shine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Relative To Standing S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
River Run S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Shine S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Squeeze Play S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Squeezing My Will to Live S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Suburban Cowgirls S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Sucking My Will to Live S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sucking My Will to Squeeze S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Super Happy Fun Time S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Suspended Sentence S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tater Tot S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Steve Danboise / Hong
Page Views: 4,301 total, 26/month
Shared By: Jim Redo on Apr 15, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


44 Opinions

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Private land Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route is just left of the 12c Sucking My Will To Live. A bit of a squeeze job as the name would suggest but I never felt like I wanted to move right or left to another route.

The biz starts at the second bolt. Varied climbing on bad holds for 5 bolts deposits you on a "slab" where you can get a marginal rest/shake out. Move left and slap your way up the powerful headwall which you wish were just a little easier. Not over until you clip the anchors.

Protection

Seven bolts to chain anchor.

Photos

Adam Stewart
5.13a
Adam Stewart  
5.13a
Really enjoying this route at the moment. I have an additional comment about the upper crux: there seems to be a good left hand sidepull way up and above the shared left hand crimp with Public Solitude. I actually use a toe on the shared crimp to reach this upper left hand sidepull, then it's a relatively easy throw to the sidepull jug with the right hand.

The bottom crux feels about V5, and the top maybe V4-. The entire route feels soft to mid-5.13a. Aug 16, 2015
Peggy Shouse
  5.13b
Peggy Shouse  
  5.13b
I really enjoyed the climbing and the two different cruxes on this route. Others I've seen on it do a throw to the final jug with the right foot in the vicinity of the sloping slot. To make this move higher percentage, I stemmed out right and dropped the right knee to make an easy reach to the final jug. Definitely do this route. Apr 9, 2015
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Agreed with some of the other comments. Worlds easier than its neighbor Public Solitude, I'm going with soft 13b. Cool moves with a crux in the middle and a powerful move up top. It's oh soooo sweet! Get 'er done.... Feb 19, 2015
EJM
  5.13a
EJM  
  5.13a
Pretty fun route regardless of the "squeeze" factor. Doesn't really feel at all contrived when climbing on it.
I think it's kind of soft at 13b...maybe I was just feeling good in spite of the hangover. Nov 8, 2009
Bart Paull
Boulder, CO
  5.13b
Bart Paull   Boulder, CO
  5.13b
Interesting, I find Public Solitude much harder than this route! Apr 5, 2009
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.13
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.13
Bart, my friends and I agree with you, this route is probably not 13c if you do the logical line of pulling up on the slab. We did this route about a year and a half ago, it was my first 13, so I don't give much value to the 13c grade here. I think the consensus around here is 13b-ish, depends on your style of climbing though. Although they climb way different, I feel that Public Solitude and this route are around the same grade. If you want to get on a real 13b, try Stuffed Wolf, best one in the canyon! Mar 21, 2009
Bart Paull
Boulder, CO
  5.13b
Bart Paull   Boulder, CO
  5.13b
This is a great route, with two really fun cruxes. What holds are people using at the first crux if you are calling it 13c? Do you step up on the slab as for Sucking My Will to Live or are you doing some abstract moves up and left into Public Solitude? I used the "hard to see two finger crimp" described in the beta by Chris Deulen above, but did not cross right hand to the next higher crimp - instead I just went straight up onto the "slab." I want to get a sense of what holds people are using to finish the first crux section of Squeeze Play, as the route seems very easy for the grade of 13c in my book. All numbers aside, great route! Feb 24, 2009
Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
  5.13c
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
  5.13c
Chris' beta is quite good -- the only thing I would add is that it's very difficult to clip the last bolt. I couldn't clip it. I took the big whip many times throwing for the "exit" hold before finally sending. Excellent route -- kudos to Steve Danboise and Steve Hong for this late (2004) addition to the crag. May 22, 2007
chris deulen
Castle Rock
  5.13c
chris deulen   Castle Rock
  5.13c
I find this climb to be a highly overlooked route at the Primo Wall. While it does use the "cup" crimp on Sucking...and the crimp around the arete near the top of Public Solitude, the movement is exciting with two sweet, varied and creative cruxes. Being that I'm not a 14 climber, anything in the 13 range takes me a while to work, so I can probably honestly say I've worked on this longer than anyone else.

Following is my beta for both cruxes: After clipping the third bolt from the "crimp rail" with the left hand, return to the crimp, throw out right and squeeze the large pinch (hence the name of the route, as well as its location) with your right, bring left foot up, smear right on the face below the pinch, drop left knee a bit and reach left hand up to good crimp, reset feet, reach right hand up to "cup" hold, clip, bring feet up, pull up several feet to a very hard to see quarter sized quartz two finger crimp with your left, bring right foot up high to the good left-hand crimp on the face, reach right hand over and several inches above the left hand to a better crimp, reset left foot, throw out left to good sloper. Upper crux: from the good sloping rail send left foot out over into the Public Solitude area, reach left hand around the corner to the good "shared" crimp, reset right foot, reach up with the right hand into the sloping slot under the roof, reset right foot, throw out to good side pull near the last bolt with the right, left hand pinches upper arete (left foot comes off), reset left foot to the shared crimp and get a decent kneebar (this always seemed to pinch a nerve in my leg, so beware), move left hand up to nearly non-existent sidepull high up on the left, slap right hand higher up on the side-pull, bring right leg up to slot under roof, throw for the knob that starts the crack to the left of the bolts. Apr 10, 2006
I broke a hold, the side pull at the 2nd to last draw. But then I sent it without any new holds. Apr 26, 2005