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Routes in Primo Wall

Battle With a Bush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breakfast Club S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
City Slickers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crying Flyboys S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Doomsday Birthday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eternal Recurrence S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Flying Child S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flying Cowboys S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grim Aura S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Groan Up S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Halle-Bop S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hangman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hooves! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Inner Gorilla S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Killer Pillar S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Less Happy Fun Time S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mildage S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mirthmobile S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moving Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Portrait in Flesh S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Portraits of Gorillas S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Primetime To Shine S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Primeval S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Problem Child S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Public Play S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Public Solitude S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Public Suck Shine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Relative To Standing S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
River Run S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Shine S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Squeeze Play S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Squeezing My Will to Live S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Suburban Cowgirls S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Sucking My Will to Live S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sucking My Will to Squeeze S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Super Happy Fun Time S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Suspended Sentence S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tater Tot S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Ken Trout, 1990.
Page Views: 3,823 total, 19/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


132 Opinions

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Private land Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Can you say jugs?? It's the second bolt line from the left on the wall. Follow the bolts... the crux is most likely around the first bolt.

Protection

3 bolts to 2 open hooks. TR access is via scrambling a gully about 30 feet to the left.
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
I have to say this is the most fun pitch of its grade in the canyon. Its only flaw is it's too short. Aug 29, 2001
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.10a
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.10a
I replaced the anchor on this today, there are no longer hooks but two steel perma-draws with Fixe bolts and hangers. Apr 15, 2013
Crag Dweller
New York, NY
 
Crag Dweller   New York, NY
 
I agree w/Caleb's comments. This may not be the best climb for someone who is just breaking into the 10 range. The moves for the first clip are where the route is a 10, and a fall before clipping would be extremely nasty. Jun 29, 2012
Caleb Phillips
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Caleb Phillips   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Might consider stick-clipping the first bolt. The hardest move (IMHO) is at the first bolt and the fall (on big sharp rocks) would suck. It definitely psyched me out. If you're taller than 6', this won't be an issue for you. The only 10a move is right at the first bolt, the rest climbs like 9. Jul 20, 2008
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
Heel hook to clip anchors...to all would be ascenders out there, the action is over after the first bolt...everything else is a nice positive jug haul...including nice jugs from which to make the anchors...which are open shuts. I agree with Peter though...very fun but too short. Peace. Jun 23, 2008
Nate Oakes  
 
Super, super fun route... but word to the wise: don't use a heel-hook at the top to pull for the anchors, unless you absolutely have it. I ended up peeling off first time and gouged my ankle out, had to stay out of the climbing shoes for a good month. Reach far right, just past the bolt, for the well-chalked jugs at the crux. Very juggy route, a good pump. May 15, 2006