Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Ken Trout, 1990.
Page Views: 4,117 total · 19/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


149 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details
Access Issue: Private land Details

Description

Can you say jugs?? It's the second bolt line from the left on the wall. Follow the bolts... the crux is most likely around the first bolt.

Protection

3 bolts to 2 open hooks. TR access is via scrambling a gully about 30 feet to the left.

Photos

Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
I have to say this is the most fun pitch of its grade in the canyon. Its only flaw is it's too short. Aug 29, 2001
Nate Oakes  
 
Super, super fun route... but word to the wise: don't use a heel-hook at the top to pull for the anchors, unless you absolutely have it. I ended up peeling off first time and gouged my ankle out, had to stay out of the climbing shoes for a good month. Reach far right, just past the bolt, for the well-chalked jugs at the crux. Very juggy route, a good pump. May 15, 2006
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
Heel hook to clip anchors...to all would be ascenders out there, the action is over after the first bolt...everything else is a nice positive jug haul...including nice jugs from which to make the anchors...which are open shuts. I agree with Peter though...very fun but too short. Peace. Jun 23, 2008
Caleb Phillips
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Caleb Phillips   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Might consider stick-clipping the first bolt. The hardest move (IMHO) is at the first bolt and the fall (on big sharp rocks) would suck. It definitely psyched me out. If you're taller than 6', this won't be an issue for you. The only 10a move is right at the first bolt, the rest climbs like 9. Jul 20, 2008
Crag Dweller
New York, NY
 
Crag Dweller   New York, NY
 
I agree w/Caleb's comments. This may not be the best climb for someone who is just breaking into the 10 range. The moves for the first clip are where the route is a 10, and a fall before clipping would be extremely nasty. Jun 29, 2012
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.10a
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.10a
I replaced the anchor on this today, there are no longer hooks but two steel perma-draws with Fixe bolts and hangers. Apr 15, 2013