Type: Sport
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 1,289 total · 6/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Aug 13, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


23 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details
Access Issue: Private land Details

Description

This line chases three bolts to the right end of the ledge above "City Slickers". It involves a very challenging mantle crux past the first bolt. I'll give it an "S" rating because the stance for the second clip is just barely in balance and if you haven't set up correctly you're likely to peel off backwards in a nasty, close-to-the-deck slammer fall. I've never taken that fall, but I've seen all sorts of people struggle with the mantle and pitch off trying to stand up. Getting onto the sloping ledge after the clip is no giveaway either, but that move is toproped by the third clip. Two stars for quality stone and a significantly devious crux.

Protection

Three bolts to a two-bolt anchor (shared with "City Slickers").

Photos

Ryan Olson  
 
2 stars is a bit much for this route in my oppinion. it is very short and the clips are bad. Also, the movement is not that great either. Nov 20, 2003
Steve Woods
  5.12a
Steve Woods  
  5.12a
Good route, but not sure where the 11c grade comes from. It felt all of 5.12a to me. ;-) The second clip is sketchy, but can be done from the right-hand crimp before comitting to the left-hand crimp sidepull. Powerfull start to technical/balancey crux to awkward mantel. Jul 21, 2005
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
My two cents on the grade..This short route is considerably easier than City Slickers next door...so obviously this would make it mid-5.11 range..I was getting pumped out on City Slickers, but had plently of juice to tic this one after several burns on the previous..Maybe V-2+..Thanks. Jun 23, 2008
Luke Childers
  5.11d R
Luke Childers  
  5.11d R
This line should get a make-over and be bolted all the way to the top of the wall!! It could be cool and it would make for a harder line. I may check it out this week and see if it would be good. It's just a thought. Aug 21, 2009
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
Don't know if you need to mantle on the crux. I think I found a way to balance fingers on the vertical edge above keeping body tension tight and the left leg flagged, standing up is not too hard, just be sure to remember where to stick that left foot once you're up as looking down afterward is not easy. Aug 8, 2012