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Routes in Primo Wall

Battle With a Bush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breakfast Club S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
City Slickers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crying Flyboys S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Doomsday Birthday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eternal Recurrence S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Flying Child S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flying Cowboys S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grim Aura S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Groan Up S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Halle-Bop S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hangman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hooves! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Inner Gorilla S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Killer Pillar S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Less Happy Fun Time S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mildage S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mirthmobile S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moving Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Portrait in Flesh S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Portraits of Gorillas S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Primetime To Shine S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Primeval S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Problem Child S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Public Play S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Public Solitude S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Public Suck Shine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Relative To Standing S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
River Run S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Shine S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Squeeze Play S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Squeezing My Will to Live S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Suburban Cowgirls S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Sucking My Will to Live S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sucking My Will to Squeeze S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Super Happy Fun Time S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Suspended Sentence S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tater Tot S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 1,221 total, 6/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Aug 13, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Private land Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This line chases three bolts to the right end of the ledge above "City Slickers". It involves a very challenging mantle crux past the first bolt. I'll give it an "S" rating because the stance for the second clip is just barely in balance and if you haven't set up correctly you're likely to peel off backwards in a nasty, close-to-the-deck slammer fall. I've never taken that fall, but I've seen all sorts of people struggle with the mantle and pitch off trying to stand up. Getting onto the sloping ledge after the clip is no giveaway either, but that move is toproped by the third clip. Two stars for quality stone and a significantly devious crux.

Protection

Three bolts to a two-bolt anchor (shared with "City Slickers").

Photos

Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
Don't know if you need to mantle on the crux. I think I found a way to balance fingers on the vertical edge above keeping body tension tight and the left leg flagged, standing up is not too hard, just be sure to remember where to stick that left foot once you're up as looking down afterward is not easy. Aug 8, 2012
Luke Childers
  5.11d R
Luke Childers  
  5.11d R
This line should get a make-over and be bolted all the way to the top of the wall!! It could be cool and it would make for a harder line. I may check it out this week and see if it would be good. It's just a thought. Aug 21, 2009
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
My two cents on the grade..This short route is considerably easier than City Slickers next door...so obviously this would make it mid-5.11 range..I was getting pumped out on City Slickers, but had plently of juice to tic this one after several burns on the previous..Maybe V-2+..Thanks. Jun 23, 2008
Steve Woods
  5.12a
Steve Woods  
  5.12a
Good route, but not sure where the 11c grade comes from. It felt all of 5.12a to me. ;-) The second clip is sketchy, but can be done from the right-hand crimp before comitting to the left-hand crimp sidepull. Powerfull start to technical/balancey crux to awkward mantel. Jul 21, 2005
Ryan Olson  
 
2 stars is a bit much for this route in my oppinion. it is very short and the clips are bad. Also, the movement is not that great either. Nov 20, 2003