Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Kevin Capps, equipped by Luke Childers
Page Views: 3,582 total · 36/month
Shared By: Kevin Capps on Apr 16, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details
Access Issue: Private land Details

Location

This is in the Upper Primo Area above Nomad Cave. It is the left-facing arete about 25 feet left of Mildage.

Description

Bolted by Luke Childers, this route is a very stellar line with beautiful green streaks of lichen in the rock. After about 12 feet of climbing there's a no hands rest, this is where the route truly begins. The route starts by grabbing holds on both sides of the arete with a good amount of body tension. After pulling the crux, just hold on until you mantel up to the anchors. The rock is clean and the holds are very fun and sometimes a bit odd.

Protection

6 bolts & 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.12d
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
  5.12d
This route is so much fun! Thanks for letting me get this one, Luke, I owe you a cold one. As for the rating, my guess is around 5.12, but it's difficult to be specific. It's harder than 12b, but easier than 13a Apr 16, 2011
Luke Childers
  5.12
Luke Childers  
  5.12
Yes sir, MR. Capps, it was my pleasure and your efforts on putting this one away were admirable to say the least. A fine line and special to me as well!! Hope all others will come to enjoy this gem as we have. Nice send for sure. Keep it up man 'cause I'm dig'in the enthusiasm!!! Apr 23, 2011
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.12+
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.12+
Got on this thing a month or so ago. Cool route that is a lot harder than it appears from the ground. Nice job, fellas. Jun 6, 2011
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.12d
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.12d
When we got to this line the only chalk was way left of the arete on large holds (impossible to lead while using these holds) and the chalk from the left hand holds on "Portrait in Flesh" After looking thru the pictures I realize that I climbed this route much more on the arete and left of the arete than the FA. I used pinches and underclings on the arete for the right hand, and crimps and sidepulls left of the arete for the left hand. Grade felt about 12d, however the falls felt like they could be awkward and the clips were hard. So be sure to study up on the pictures before heading out to this.

Fun route, and thanks for the hard work. Apr 15, 2016
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.12d
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
  5.12d
Ya, I stayed slightly right of the arĂȘte for the crux on the FA. I watched a tall person go way left on toprope. It's a totally different route if you go way left and probably impossible to clip, but also a bit contrived if you force yourself to go right. It's a funky crux and a little sharp. Apr 15, 2016
JamesLucas Lucas
Boulder, CO
JamesLucas Lucas   Boulder, CO
After hand tightening the loose nut on the 3/4th bolt, I climbed the route via the left-side of the arete, because I like to climb on holds versus climbing where the bolts go. That said, the bolts weren't that hard to clip. Falling would probably result in an Elder Statesman-esque nightmare. vimeo.com/210809039.

Great route. May 5, 2019