Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

City Slickers

5.12a, Sport,  Avg: 2.4 from 146 votes
FA: Alan Nelson, 1990
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Primo Wall
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details
Access Issue: Private land Details

Description

Short but stout, this is a slightly overhung route with somewhat powerful moves and not much of a rest. I won't divulge the beta, but know that it's not just an overhang haul - it requires some careful balance.

Protection

3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with quicklinks. Third bolt is drawn incorrectly in the Rolofson guidebook; you can't see it from the ground, but it's just over the lip of the ledge. To prevent horrendous abrasion of your rope, clean on rappel.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Zach Allen reaching for the crux 2-finger pocket.
[Hide Photo] Zach Allen reaching for the crux 2-finger pocket.
Kevin, the city slicker.
[Hide Photo] Kevin, the city slicker.
Max on City Slickers.
[Hide Photo] Max on City Slickers.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Starting low off the ground to the right of the starting ledge and the first bolt improves the route. A series of tricky moves off the ground gets to the first bolt and makes the route longer and more continuous. Dec 18, 2002
bb
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Since this route is so short, I didn't feel like this climb deserved a 5.12 rating. The juggy two finger pocket out left is an amazing hold! Jan 23, 2004
chris deulen
Castle Rock
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Just because it's short doesn't mean it's not difficult. No one sandbagged "The Fly" because it was two bolts. I think a boulder rating would be more accurate in this circumstance (though still quite high ball); in this case probably V4/V4+. Aug 13, 2004
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Length schmength... size doesn't matter... err... What I mean is that you better have the moves and stamina if you want to get off this route... 12a! ;-) Apr 20, 2006
Erik Durgin
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Great little boulder problem. Definitely worth doing if you are in the area. I agree with the V4/V4+ rating Sep 27, 2006
Sam Benedict
Denver, CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] This was the first 12a that I actually sent. It seems to be a good one for breaking into the grade. Not as glorious as it could be, being as short as it is. But whatever, it's still a 12a in my book. The setting up to go to the pocket and the tricky mantle certainly warrant the grade. Dec 11, 2006
[Hide Comment] Sam, I poop out better 12s than that! Just kidding. Good send. Dec 13, 2006
Davis Benz
Golden
[Hide Comment] Is the pocket chipped? Seemed too good to be true. Aug 16, 2009
Luke Childers
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] It has been many years since I had climbed this line, but I remembered just how much I do love this line. Yes, it's short but the moves are fun and it's a great warm-up option on this steep and difficult wall. It's also a great grade for those breaking into the 12 grade and I have seen the line bring much satisfaction to those starting to push that grade. Bottom line...it's a nice line. Aug 21, 2009
dan scales
Denver, CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Good line! Short but powerful off mostly good holds (minus the top mantle). Great climb if you're breaking into 12. Only my second 12a and it went down first go. Aug 28, 2009
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I have no idea why Mabe's guidebook gives this no stars. I've climbed plenty of zero star routes, and this is definitely not one of them. Other than the awkward mantle at the start, the moves are really fun and the rock is great. Well worth doing despite the short length. Sep 26, 2009
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
 
[Hide Comment] V3. Dec 16, 2009
Luke Childers
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Looks like old Darth Jables didn't take his meds today!! We all know this line is more like a three bolt V1-a/b with a five foot long 5.8+c/d toss to gain the lip of what resembles a truck stop-sized, marble, table top. I give it stars!! Fun line. Dec 18, 2009
[Hide Comment] I could maybe see V3, I felt V4 was fair. Wish this could really be bouldered out... getting down would not be fun, though. Dec 31, 2009
tcamillieri
Denver
5.11c
[Hide Comment] Pocket is not chipped. Jan 9, 2010
[Hide Comment] Felt V4 to me. Jul 9, 2011
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
  5.12a PG13
[Hide Comment] If it weren't for the opening and closing ledges, this would be pretty epic: the movement through the middle is a blast (though short-lived). Aug 8, 2012
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Short but great. Worth doing for sure even though the Clear Creek guidebook gives it no stars. The mantle alone deserves a star in itself and will make you smile.... Oct 18, 2012
Gneiss Yeti
Denver, Colorado
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] The moves on this route are super fun. Would be classic if it was a little longer. Amazing finger pocket up high that only nature could create. Do it! Jun 11, 2013
DPug
  5.11c/d
[Hide Comment] Didn't feel like a 12 to me. Fell on the mantle during my flash attempt, the mantle definitely felt like the crux to me, but then again I suck at mantling. A boulder grade of V3 seems more appropriate for this route. Sep 10, 2013
drewhouser
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] V4...mantle isn't bad, if you're into that sort of thing. Aug 10, 2015
Aaron Furman
Eldorado Springs, CO
 
[Hide Comment] God, I want to put a perma-chain on that lip! May 14, 2017
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Go for it, just be sure and put a steel carabiner at the bottom of the chain, no aluminum, please! May 14, 2017