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Looking to tick Tahoe/High Sierra trad mega-classics this spring/summer...

Original Post
Tyson Waldron · · Reno, NV · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 910

Hey, I would really like to meet local climbers who are into efficient bombproof anchors, hand jams, and moderate Tahoe/High Sierra mega-classics.

Currently, I only have one solid partner for this, and scheduling can be a chore, looking to find new awesome people to climb with.

A very abridged version of my Tahoe to-do/wish list this summer would go something like this: (in no particular order)

The Line
Fantasia
Traveler Buttress
East Crack
Kangaroo
Candyland
Harding's Chimney
I Be Jammin'
Regular Route, The Steeple
Sun Ribbon Arete
Charlotte Dome
Sands of Time
White Punks on Dope
Touch and Go
Firecracker
LockBuster

Any of the routes listed I would feel comfortable leading any part of, I'd be willing to climb harder "classics" following, but solid 5.9/easy-ish 5.10 is about as hard as I can go on the traditional sharp end right now.

The season is almost upon us so I thought I'd start my search for new climbers now. I live in Reno and have a pretty open availability this season.

Cheers!
About Me

Matt..C · · South Lake Tahoe, CA · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 20

I would be up for the 5.8-5.9s and possible some of the easy 5.10s. It's been a long winter and just want to get back in the groove of things. I try to make it to tahoe often during the spring/summer when time allows.

Scott C. · · Auburn, CA · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 5

Hey, I'm also interested in doing some sweet high sierra climbs this season! I'm in Auburn, let me know if you want to meet up at Sugarloaf or something, maybe tick hardings chimney, and see what other climbs will work out.

-Scott

mac345 · · Reno, Nv · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 0

hey tyson im down this summer. available weekends and can take longer trips occasionally can email at addyboy28@gmail.com

mac345 · · Reno, Nv · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 0

also going to woodfords this weekend depending on weather iffin yous wants to go let me know

Matt Bentley · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 20

Hi Tyson,
Great list! I'd love to join for some of these if you still need partners. I'm based in the Bay Area so a bit further away, but with a flexible schedule so I can get out on weekdays, which would be great for avoiding crowds on classics like this. Safe climber with 10+ years experience, comfortable leading 8/9 trad and following 10+.
Send me a message next time you need someone!
--Matt

Shire-mon · · Moab, UT / Boone, NC · Joined May 2008 · Points: 50

Hey,

Don't forget Hospital Corner (5.10a?) and Surrealistic Pillar Direct (5.10b) when your at Lover's Leap. Get to Sugerloaf also and get on The Fracture (5.10d), its only got one 5.10d move and is suuuper safe, so just suck it up and go for it. Enjoy!

-Brett

Tyson Waldron · · Reno, NV · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 910

Hey Guys, thanks for the interest.

Sorry, I haven't checked back on the post until now. Right off the bat a few guys contacted me through email or phone, so I assumed that would be how everyone would do it.

Any of you trying to get out in the area this week or next? I'm pretty open for Woodfords Canyon, Sugarloaf Area, Phantom Spires, Eagle Lake Cliff, even The Pie Shop.

Went out yesterday to Woodfords Canyon, the place is insane! The Granite is of the highest quality. The area looks like it has excellent bouldering, trad, and sport, even a few multi-pitch selections. Campground right at the base of several approaches and crags, the town of gardnerville ~15 minutes away, shade climbing, sun climbing, this place seriously has it all. This canyon has to be the most underground and underrated concentration of granite in the whole Tahoe region, at least for what is included in any guidebook I've seen for the area.

The underground and under-documented feel only adds to this place. It's taking me a good amount of will power to not spray MP with pics and beta right now. But I will restrain. Others have. The longer this place stays semi-secret, the better. There will be lines for these routes someday soon. I've heard a guidebook for the area is soon to be released.

We ticked:

The Perfect Lie Back 5.8 (OS'd a while ago, this was my second time leading it)
The Red Pillar 5.9 (certified gold. 5 stars. OS.) It's hilarious to me a climb of this quality has only 2.3 stars on MP, a few people who don't know how to manage their rope put one and two stars, and this route stays in obscurity... Ron Anderson gives 5 stars in his hand written guidebook, and I have to concur!)
Whisker Biscuit 5.8 (Flash, excellent and mellow splitter)
Walking Jack 5.10+/10d (TR, one hung it. Awkward foot jams and rattly fingers, would make for a very spicy lead)

Next Time Goals:

Quoia the Destroya 5.9
I Be Jammin' 5.10a
Something on 8 - Sun Wall Area
5.8 Hand Crack
Maybe Cat Scratch Fever 5.10c? Looks SO good, but very difficult.

If any of you guys can get out soon that would be cool. Just call or email me, I'll probably check the post every so often now I know people are contacting me that way.

Salamanizer Ski · · Off the Grid… · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 20,944

I'm looking for someone to climb with this weekend if anyone's interested. I pretty much only have the weekends, but I never miss one. Having a hard time finding motivated partners.

Prefer climbing on gear from 5.9 to 5.12 but if it looks good I'll jump on pretty much anything. Would prefer partners who can at least follow mid 5.10 or looking to break into and push on through the .11's would be ideal, but not necessarily mandatory depending on where we're climbing. Example- if we're climbing at the Leap or Phantom, .9's and .10's are cool. But if you wanna go to Cal Domes or Yosemite you should at least be able to scrape your way up a 5.11 if you wanna have any fun.

Just being honest.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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