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Routes in 8.5 - Red Pillar Area

Red Pillar, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Parks, Griffin 1979
Page Views: 1,202 total, 12/month
Shared By: outdooreric on Jun 4, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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16 Opinions

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Description

This route has a 5 star rating in the old guide, but it didn't quite live up to the hype. Some loose and crumbly rock exists in the crack and it ends poorly. The middle of the climb has nice hand jams while the pillar is a fun feature to climb. Overall a route of average quality.

The first crux comes from getting off the ground and a second crux comes from leaving a stance and gaining the hand crack just after the roof traverse. Higher up there is a small crack on the left wall that accepts nuts and smaller cams.

Location

The climb follows the left side of the namesake detached reddish pillar on the east side of the crag. The pillar is accessed by climbing to the arch and traversing left under the roof.

Protection

Standard rack with a couple 3-4" cams to protect the roof traverse under the arch.

Photos

csproul
Davis, CA
csproul   Davis, CA
The 5.9 moves from the top of the pillar to the anchors step right and go around the face. Best to not place any pro if doing this step right, or you will have bad rope drag. Going straight up the face looks more like 5.10 and unprotectable with fall potential back to the pillar. Mar 20, 2016
RDA
RDA  
Just around the corner right of Red Pillar is "First Crux" a nice short 5.9 clean crack and layback. May 27, 2013
Laine Christman
Reno, NV
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
The move off the pillar to the top is exciting. Anchor condition and placement leaves much to be desired. I had rope issues as well. Good overall. Mar 25, 2013
Weston L
Summerlin, NV
  5.9
Weston L   Summerlin, NV
  5.9
A good route with sustained movement but with questionable rock quality higher up on it. The anchor placement is absolutely puzzling to me. Very odd to have to make illogical abd sketchy moves w rope drag up to the anchor. Gear to 4". Feb 2, 2013
JGHarrison harrison
Reno, NV
 
JGHarrison harrison   Reno, NV
 
FYI, the perfect lieback pic up in the description is from the route called "perfect lieback" not the Red Pillar.

I had issues with getting the rope stuck on this, bring some webbing to leave on rap...If this thing ever gets retrobolted anchors...it seems to me that it would be better to put them on top of the pillar, instead of where they are at currently...just for rope drag issues. Apr 28, 2012
T. Page
Truckee, CA
 
T. Page   Truckee, CA
 
Be careful of placing gear where the roof crack turns vertical. There was a #1 Camalot that got eaten that kept my #1 Link cam from the same fortune. The rope inevitably runs in the crack once you get above it, so a #3 under the roof and a #2 well above where the crack turns vertical seems like the best option.

Just my 2c. Have fun, it's a Great Climb! Nov 7, 2010