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Woodfords Canyon Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 5,972 ft |
| GPS: | 38.765, -119.846 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 125,471 total · 1,039/month |
| Shared By: | Milton Mugambe on Feb 17, 2009 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Woodfords Canyon offers year-round climbing. The south-facing side of Highway 88 allows comfortable climbing conditions during the winter months. When the mercury climbs into the 40's in Reno, the temperatures at Woodfords can allow for surprisingly comfortable climbing, assuming there are clear skies and light winds. In summer, the shady walls lying on the south side create perfect conditions during the hotter summer months.
The area is relatively unknown, usually only receiving the attention of a few parties on weekends. The climbing is generally traditional and although there are routes up to four pitches in length, the majority of the climbs are a half rope long, with a 70m rope being extremely useful. The granite on the winter side is generally excellent with some areas of coarse rock. The summer areas have finer grained granite and less coarse rock but more dirt and munge; these climbs required extensive cleaning on their first ascents.
These climbs offer some of the purest crack climbing in the Tahoe area and is a great training area for Yosemite and the High Sierra.
Most of the Woodfords climbs lie on public land in the Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest. You can always check the HTNF website for current access information.
The area is relatively unknown, usually only receiving the attention of a few parties on weekends. The climbing is generally traditional and although there are routes up to four pitches in length, the majority of the climbs are a half rope long, with a 70m rope being extremely useful. The granite on the winter side is generally excellent with some areas of coarse rock. The summer areas have finer grained granite and less coarse rock but more dirt and munge; these climbs required extensive cleaning on their first ascents.
These climbs offer some of the purest crack climbing in the Tahoe area and is a great training area for Yosemite and the High Sierra.
Most of the Woodfords climbs lie on public land in the Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest. You can always check the HTNF website for current access information.
Getting There
Woodford's Canyon is located in Alpine County, California, along Highway 88, 20 minutes from South Lake Tahoe. There are quite a few different parking areas and trail heads.
Driving from the west
Take Highway 50 west from South Lake Tahoe. Drive through the town of Meyers, go left on Highway 89 (south), drive several miles to the junction of Highways 88 and 89. Turn left onto Highway 88 (east), drive down the valley which follows the steep East Fork of the Carson River. Towards the bottom of the canyon the road becomes less steep and to the left is an obvious south facing treeless mountain side. The golden rock formations above the bushy slope is known as The Fortress. Park on the north-side of the road next to rotating road condition sign, where a small stream runs along the shoulder of the road. This parking area is on the left after passing Crystal Springs Campground. Pull a u-turn after passing over the bridge and park in front of the aforementioned road sign. Follow the well beaten trail that goes upstream (west) towards a tree covered rocky ridge. From the ridge follow a decent climber's trail that is marked by cairns through a line of trees that lead to the base or The Fortress. The wall lying directly above the approach trail is known as the Donnie G and can be identified by a prominent "stalactite". Allow 30-45 minutes for the approach.
Driving from the east
From the East, Carson City or Gardnerville, take 395 to the 88 intersection Northwest of Minden. From here, at 395, it is 15.2 miles to the parking area for the "Fortress". On the way you will pass the junction with 89 toward Markleeville.
From this junction, it is 1.3 miles to the "Fortress" parking area, on the right.
Driving from the west
Take Highway 50 west from South Lake Tahoe. Drive through the town of Meyers, go left on Highway 89 (south), drive several miles to the junction of Highways 88 and 89. Turn left onto Highway 88 (east), drive down the valley which follows the steep East Fork of the Carson River. Towards the bottom of the canyon the road becomes less steep and to the left is an obvious south facing treeless mountain side. The golden rock formations above the bushy slope is known as The Fortress. Park on the north-side of the road next to rotating road condition sign, where a small stream runs along the shoulder of the road. This parking area is on the left after passing Crystal Springs Campground. Pull a u-turn after passing over the bridge and park in front of the aforementioned road sign. Follow the well beaten trail that goes upstream (west) towards a tree covered rocky ridge. From the ridge follow a decent climber's trail that is marked by cairns through a line of trees that lead to the base or The Fortress. The wall lying directly above the approach trail is known as the Donnie G and can be identified by a prominent "stalactite". Allow 30-45 minutes for the approach.
Driving from the east
From the East, Carson City or Gardnerville, take 395 to the 88 intersection Northwest of Minden. From here, at 395, it is 15.2 miles to the parking area for the "Fortress". On the way you will pass the junction with 89 toward Markleeville.
From this junction, it is 1.3 miles to the "Fortress" parking area, on the right.
Classic Climbing Routes at Woodfords Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
13 Comments
More About Woodfords Canyon
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Guidebooks (10)
Reno, NV
Los Alamos, NM
According to my topo, The Fortress should be listed as an area, and within that area should be the 2nd Alcove (and its routes therein). The Perfect Lieback should also be a route listed within a sub-area of The Fortress, aka The Liebacks Area.
Can we re-organize in this way? Also, is it possible to actually make such "sub-crag" area divisions within an area on mtnprjct? (It doesn't necessarily look like it.) Apr 10, 2009
South Lake Tahoe CA
I heard you're putting together a climbing guide for Woodford's Canyon it's about time that a current one is done by someone who really knows the area!! I also heard you need a publisher. I will let you know if i find one.
Keep up the good work!
Sasha Jun 15, 2009
CA
Reno, NV
Sacramento, CA
I also moved the areas/pages that belong there.
Since I haven't climbed up there yet, I didn't add an area for the Liebacks, but left the Perfect Lieback in the closest existing page (the Sun Wall Area). Jun 27, 2014
Truckee, California
San Diego, Ca