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Routes in Golden Eagle Buttress

Essence of Gelfling, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13

Description

This crag is located directly above and to the east of the parking area for The Fortress. The wall lies below the large broken area of rock high on the mountain-side, and can be identified by a slender pillar of silver rock that sits to the right of the broken golden wall. A deep chimney system seperates the main gold colored from the silver colored pillar. Although the wall faces primarily to the south, east and west facing wall allow one to chase the shade or the sun depending on the conditions. This wall is virtually unknown and offers adventure and many first ascent opportunities. The rock quality is generally good to excellent, with some areas of coarse rock.

Getting There

Approach by grinding up the steep slope to the right(east) of the watershed gully that lies to the east of the Fortress. Stay left until below the rocky fifth class passage up a gully system that allows access the staging area below the climbs. The slender, silver column of rock to the right of the broken golden rock hosts the classic, first pitch of The Essence of Gelfling 5.10a/b 140ft.
The routes that lie above and to the west of the main Golden Eagle Buttress formation, are best approached by climbing The Essence of Gelfling (two pitches, 5.10a/b), or a more arduous, and less fun approach can be made by continuing up the sandy, rocky slopes that run along the west side of the main, blocky golden colored rock formation. Several routes exist but you may feel that you're doing an f.a. since these climbs have seen little traffic in the few years since they were first climbed.

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