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Routes in High Energy Wall

ADP T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Amped T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lighting Dream S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Neutron T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Proton T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unnamed 5.9+ T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Bauer/Osman '88
Page Views: 1,178 total · 29/month
Shared By: Tyson Waldron on Oct 3, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Neutron is an excellent right leaning hand crack in a steep corner. Neutron will probably be the first obvious feature you notice on the approach to High Energy Wall.

The original line shares an anchor with another very classic leaning crack called Proton, which is off to the left. Ryan Curry and FA-ist Mark Bauer added a direct line and anchors, which does not increase difficulty, and continues straight up from the end of the Neutron corner..

The position of the original anchor will create some heinous rope grinding drag if you were to just lower off of it, so we elected to belay from the cozy ledge up top and rap back to the ground. (You can also set a few directionals and TR Proton if you want from these anchors) Or as Ryan points out in the comments, you can climb to the direct line to anchors instead.

I understand there is also a second pitch from the original (Proton) anchor station, but I don't have any beta on it.

Location

Start on the slab directly below the Neutron corner, not in the moss filled corner to the right.

Protection

.3 to #3, likes #2 through crux

Photos

Khick
 
Khick  
 
Do the direct finish! It feels too short if you go let to the anchors on the ledge. Oct 15, 2014
Laine Christman
Reno, NV
 
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
 
Did this route to the Bauer/Curry finish. This direct finish really adds to the route overall and keeps the rope drag to a minimum. I skipped the bolts and found decent pro in the crack/flake. Classic line from beginning to end Oct 13, 2014
Mark Bauer and I added a direct finish to avoid the traverse at the end of the original pitch. If you continue straight up from the end of the corner you can link into another crack/flake (2 bolts) to a separate anchor at the top of the cliff. This stretch goes at 5.7/5.8-ish. Oct 6, 2014

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