Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Bauer/Osman '88
Page Views: 2,818 total · 38/month
Shared By: Tyson Waldron on Oct 3, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Neutron is an excellent right leaning hand crack in a steep corner. Neutron will probably be the first obvious feature you notice on the approach to High Energy Wall.

The original line shares an anchor with another very classic leaning crack called Proton, which is off to the left. Ryan Curry and FA-ist Mark Bauer added a direct line and anchors, which does not increase difficulty, and continues straight up from the end of the Neutron corner..

The position of the original anchor will create some heinous rope grinding drag if you were to just lower off of it, so we elected to belay from the cozy ledge up top and rap back to the ground. (You can also set a few directionals and TR Proton if you want from these anchors) Or as Ryan points out in the comments, you can climb to the direct line to anchors instead.

I understand there is also a second pitch from the original (Proton) anchor station, but I don't have any beta on it.

Location

Start on the slab directly below the Neutron corner, not in the moss filled corner to the right.

Protection

.3 to #3, likes #2 through crux

Photos