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Routes in 1 - Books Area

5.7 Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
5.8 Hand Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat Scratch Fever T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Ron Anderson & Bill Nagel 1978
Page Views: 3,146 total · 31/month
Shared By: Aerili on Aug 17, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

An east-facing, clean, crisp dihedral and most northerly of the three routes on this outcropping. Shares a common platform staging area with 5.7 Book. Sustained 10a moves make up most of this stellar line, with a somewhat desperate pinched-down crux and a few face moves thrown in for variety up higher.

Protection

Standard rack with emphasis on small cams and nuts. Rap anchors directly above. Can be toproped after leading the 5.7 Book to its left.

Photos

Wes P
Reno, NV
Wes P   Reno, NV
READ!! SAFETY-RELATED!

Really fun route, however, it's a little dangerous right now and climbers should have caution. About 1/3 of the way up, the big fin-like block has become totally detached and is a total time bomb. Someone needs to probably "take care" of this on rappel or being lowered from above. WAY too dangerous if a belayer is below. The block is big and could definitely kill someone if it fell on them. Mar 29, 2016
Wogginz
 
Wogginz  
 
Wicked route! Lots of variety for attack - try the arete on TR between 5.7 Book and Cat Scratch Fever. fun times Jan 27, 2015
Tele Liz
Corvallis, OR
Tele Liz   Corvallis, OR
So freakin fun! Loved this climb! Watched my friend lieback the whole dang thing~ highly recommended if you're looking for a good workout and thrashing. I thought it was a fabulous jamming crack with a few lieback/face moves at the top. Agree with the desperate pinch-down move... one of those moments when you're jealous of your 6 ft+ compadres. But WHAT a fun climb! We did laps! Jun 18, 2014
Ima Fred Knot
Victoria, Seychelles
Ima Fred Knot   Victoria, Seychelles
dug Artman
Gardnerville NV
dug Artman   Gardnerville NV
concur that the route is probably 10c onsight. Feb 8, 2013
RDA
  5.10b/c
RDA  
  5.10b/c
I concur with the Colonel the quotes above are from me. One of the FA dooods. The multiple cruxs within the closely sustained other moves all being 5.10 or better really allude to a 10C rating for the ONSIGHT. Which is how i rated all of my climbs.. Yes, the 10A rating was a bit sandbaggish in our eyes when rating it for the guide. Consistency is a hard thing to achieve in rating climbs really. Youve got your on days , youve got your off days, then youve got your dazed dayz..

Whichevah really- it pleases me to see the route gain the attention it has- even being featured on a cover of a local mag in Cali. Good to know there is like minded folk who see the beauty there and like it, just like we first in 1978. And yeah,, it was a HARD lead then. Rattly pro in flares, nary a cam to be known yet. When we sat at the base of the route to be- looking at the surrounding corners and that crack up the slab, we actually thought this might be easier from the ground...Under the influence of heady "erbalage" mind you.

so yup, if you wanna call it a 10C to onsight that would be perfectly fare in my mind. Ive done many 10 C gorge climbs that seemed far easier. Whomever rated it 5.9 is playing games with the rating average mechanism here..lol! ;-) Dec 3, 2012
Mike McL
South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
Mike McL   South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
This is a pretty good route, certainly worth doing. A fairly clean dihedral with some fun jamming and laybacking. It takes good gear, and you can get in some solid pieces before the cruxes. Bring some extra finger sized cams. Feb 26, 2012