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Routes in 1 - Books Area

5.7 Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
5.8 Hand Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat Scratch Fever T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Vogl/Griffin 1984
Page Views: 4,089 total, 40/month
Shared By: Aerili on Aug 17, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Description

Starts on the face of the outermost "book." Several cracks split this face, but the most obvious line allows you to start at the very bottom of the book, climb up ~30-40 feet until the crack widens and a small ramp appears across the face to the left. Traverse this way on face moves to gain access to another crack which leads to the top. Seriously good sustained 5.8 most of the way.

Location

The only route on the Books which does not start off the slopey platform. You can downclimb from the platform and try the short hike down and around through the manzanita to gain the base. An alternative is to climb either of the two routes to its right, climb up and over the boulders on the top-out, and build an anchor on the other side above 5.8 Hand Crack from which to rap.

Protection

Small to large. Sizes required range from 0.4 to 4. I believe I've used a #5 near the end of the line as well, but it's not do-or-die.

No fixed anchors. A lot of small loose rocks lie near the edge of this route, so bring several long slings or webbing to make an anchor farther back if toproping or rapping off.

Photos

grabski
N California
  5.8
grabski   N California
  5.8
The name is a little deceptive. The main crack is flared, meaning the good pro is smaller than hand-sized at the back of the crack. I'd recommend doubles to 1" plus nuts for the bulk of it, and I agree on the #4 to protect the top crack. And agreed on the 2" cam (or two) for the anchor, plus you can thread or place nuts further back in the blocks. Extend the anchor to reduce rope drag over the lip. To clean, walk over to the anchor of Cat Scratch Fever and rap. Oct 24, 2016
Tele Liz
Corvallis, OR
Tele Liz   Corvallis, OR
Fun climb! Solid 5.8. There are now anchors above the 2 climbs to the right (5.7 and Cat Scratch Fever) so you can top out and rap from those. Fun climb and clean for Woodfords! Jun 18, 2014
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
I second the Joshua Tree feel for this climb, and actually for a lot of the climbs in Woodfords. Love it!

This is a great route for the 5.8 grade, I highly recommend it. I mostly used fingers to 2" on this route. The crack often takes smaller pro because it'll pinch down in places, and it often has a small crack in the back of a larger crack in which to place. A #4 is all that is needed to protect the topout.

There was a bright orange thread through somebody left up there and I really should have cut. I didn't examine to see if somebody rapped through it (doubtful from the placement) or just forgot it. I'll remove it next time I'm up there or somebody else should because there is no reason for it. Feb 13, 2011
SKI
Portlandia, OR
  5.8
SKI   Portlandia, OR
  5.8
Route protects extremely well
Meanders to the climber's left via a system of cracks before and excellent hands finish near the top.
A #4 protects at the very end, but it's easier to simply go up and over the easy finish and set up a gear anchor. Save #2's and #3's for the anchor. Jun 7, 2010
This is a really fun pitch. A lot of variety and continuity, it has a Joshua Tree-like feel to it. Save hands-sized gear for the anchor. Also, a #4 Camalot is nice to have near the top. Aug 28, 2009