Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,164 total · 42/month
Shared By: Colonel Mustard on Nov 27, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The first pitch of this climb is the hike up to the Wood Hood. You will be well warmed up at this point, so quit dallying and get to the business!

Pitch 1: It can be bypassed by easier/crappy gully climbing to the right, but that would also make you a weenie. A bolt about 10-15 feet up marks the start. Continue straight up, placing gear in intermittent cracks. Once you reach a large ledge and a downward facing tusk of rock you encounter the final business of the route with testy, technical, crumbling 5.11+ bolt-protected face business. Good luck! Bolted anchors at a small, but comfortable ledge. 5.11c.

Pitch 2: Get off the anchor ledge in whatever manner you deem safe, then hike a hundred feet or more up the gully (passing the slung, bushy Christmas tree) to the next belay situated below a slab located at the base of the obvious "Hand" formation. Pursue the detached flake on the right hand side of the slab and then traverse over to the tree at the end of the slab where the anchors are situated. 5.8.

Pitch 3: This is the start of the obvious dihedral system. Yes, you will be pulling that crazy roof a hundred feet up. I hear that lie backing the initial rail that didn't look it but is pretty overhung is easier than wide jamming the thing like I did. Pursue wild, engaging climbing over multiple bulges to the thrilling roof conclusion. The bolted chain anchors are located right after the roof. 5.11b.

Pitch 4: The corner o' fingers. Hand jams narrow until they are finger jams and then, well, not jams at all. Stemming, the random jug rail, and some body English will see you through the crux. The final stretch widens up to 4" camalot (optional piece, I suppose) and an awkward exit. The large capstone at the top has chain anchors. 5.11a.

In short: Two approach pitches to two of the better pitches I have climbed at Woodfords.

Descent: 70m rope will get you down in 4 raps. Rappel all the chains you saw going up, and then go down to the Smearing for Jesus anchors in the gully where the 70m will just get you down.

Location

Right in the middle of the Wood Hood. The obvious, towering "Hand" formation is what you pursue and the climb itself goes up the large dihedral system on the left hand side of the formation.

Protection

Micro cams to 3", doubles will do you. All belays are at bolted anchors.

Photos