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Routes in 2 - Wood Hood

Hand of God, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Inside/Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Jammin' for Jehova' T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Smearing for Jesus T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Topographic Ocean T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Two Lips T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weak Stick, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Yellow Fin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,633 total · 44/month
Shared By: Colonel Mustard on Nov 27, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The first pitch of this climb is the hike up to the Wood Hood. You will be well warmed up at this point, so quit dallying and get to the business!

Pitch 1: It can be bypassed by easier/crappy gully climbing to the right, but that would also make you a weenie. A bolt about 10-15 feet up marks the start. Continue straight up, placing gear in intermittent cracks. Once you reach a large ledge and a downward facing tusk of rock you encounter the final business of the route with testy, technical, crumbling 5.11+ bolt-protected face business. Good luck! Bolted anchors at a small, but comfortable ledge. 5.11c.

Pitch 2: Get off the anchor ledge in whatever manner you deem safe, then hike a hundred feet or more up the gully (passing the slung, bushy Christmas tree) to the next belay situated below a slab located at the base of the obvious "Hand" formation. Pursue the detached flake on the right hand side of the slab and then traverse over to the tree at the end of the slab where the anchors are situated. 5.8.

Pitch 3: This is the start of the obvious dihedral system. Yes, you will be pulling that crazy roof a hundred feet up. I hear that lie backing the initial rail that didn't look it but is pretty overhung is easier than wide jamming the thing like I did. Pursue wild, engaging climbing over multiple bulges to the thrilling roof conclusion. The bolted chain anchors are located right after the roof. 5.11b.

Pitch 4: The corner o' fingers. Hand jams narrow until they are finger jams and then, well, not jams at all. Stemming, the random jug rail, and some body English will see you through the crux. The final stretch widens up to 4" camalot (optional piece, I suppose) and an awkward exit. The large capstone at the top has chain anchors. 5.11a.

In short: Two approach pitches to two of the better pitches I have climbed at Woodfords.

Descent: 70m rope will get you down in 4 raps. Rappel all the chains you saw going up, and then go down to the Smearing for Jesus anchors in the gully where the 70m will just get you down.

Location

Right in the middle of the Wood Hood. The obvious, towering "Hand" formation is what you pursue and the climb itself goes up the large dihedral system on the left hand side of the formation.

Protection

Micro cams to 3", doubles will do you. All belays are at bolted anchors.

Photos

Laine Christman
Reno, NV
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
Regarding pitch 1 - I'd recommend slotting a small wire from the stance just before the the second to last bolt as you can't reach the bolt unless you are Yeti tall. Jan 21, 2014
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
  5.11c
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
  5.11c
Pretty classic climbing in the dihedral. Didn't find the first pitch to be much drama. A short crux and fairly obvious, well protected climbing.

The main corners first pitch is pretty bad ass going around the roof but I thought it was too strait forward with locker fingers and jambs and bomber feet to be anything harder than 5.10c/d so don't be intimidated by it. The pitch in the corner above was much harder and far more sustained. Mar 24, 2014
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.11+
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.11+
I mostly agree with your assessment, Sal, but would still hesitate to call the first pitch straightforward (not sure where "drama" comes in). Maybe we cleaned some of the crumble off on our ascent, or maybe you just handle it better. That is what I meant by "testy". Maybe "tenuous" would have seemed less dramatic wording to you? Ball bearing-like crumble I found certainly qualified as tenuous to me anyway!

I mostly went with (I believe) Dan K's grades since he's doing the guidebook, with the exception of upgrading the fourth pitch from 5.10d to 5.11a. It seems fair at 5.11a to me. Partner thought the roof was 5.11-, but I thought it wasn't too bad. Then again, a shorter climber told me it was a real bear for him. More consolidation of grades wouldn't hurt. Mar 26, 2014
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
  5.11c
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
  5.11c
I wouldn't read too much into anything I say. The first pitch is certainly a bit crispy, but I didn't find it to be too bad. I never said it was strait forward, anything but. Pretty unique really.

I said the (I guess) 4th pitch roof was strait forward. Bomber jambs, good feet, short crux. I don't think height has much to do with it. The guy that followed me liebacked the whole thing which looked hard. I just sunk my hands in those bomber jambs and the hand of god itself couldn't have pulled me out... pun intended. I say 5.10c but wouldn't argue with .10d or just .10+. But no way 5.11b. The last pitch however, .11a at least. Mar 26, 2014
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.11+
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.11+
Yeah, that all makes sense. I need to climb it again when I get back there! The last two pitches are some of the best I've climbed at woodfords. Mar 26, 2014

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