Mountain Project Logo

Routes in One Of These Days Buttress

Bush League T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Diamond T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Little Miss Manners T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Livin' A Dream S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
One Of These Days T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pictures of Me T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Paul Jensen, 2002
Page Views: 1,385 total · 21/month
Shared By: Patrick Mulligan on Jun 24, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This sport route has roughly 10 bolts and starts directly to the left of One of These Days. The route starts with mid .11 moves through the first roof and into a small corner (bolts on the left wall outside of the corner and then by the second roof (4th bolt) becomes a series of hard .11d moves with little rest to the chains. Several holds have been reinforced. While there are some big holds, mostly in the form of underclings, there are generally no real feet near them. This keeps the route very pumpy and very sustained.

Paul Jensen: "Starts with a traverse going to the right past two bolts. The third through fifth bolts take you into a corner with technical 11+ moves. There's another 11 move above the 7th bolt. The crux comes after the 9th bolt. There are some 10+ moves near the last bolts on the route. This is a very sustained route with many fun but technical moves."

Location

Starts under the large roof to the left of One of These Days.

Protection

13 Bolts to Two Open Shut Anchors. No long run outs - very safe.

Photos

Paul Jensen  
 
I put this route up around 2003 when I owned a home on Crystal Springs Rd in Woodfords. I moved to Lander Wyoming the following year. I gave a topo guide of the route to Jay Smith while he was working at Sports LTD. I named the route "Livin a Dream" and thought it was around 12b/c. Mark Lilly and Adam Lazeer, both teachers at Douglas High School, can confirm that I put this route up. Mark Nicholas of Strawberry, who by the way has the best view of Lovers Leap from his backyard, can confirm my first ascent. I've been on Maui the last 4 years, but I'm pretty sure I have a topo of the route in a box somewhere? If I find it, I'll post it. I remember the granite being a little subpar, but the moves and route as a whole are fantastic!! Nov 7, 2013
Mark Lilly
Stateline, NV
Mark Lilly   Stateline, NV
Can confirm that Paul put up this route. CANNOT confirm the grade...'cause I still cannot do it...ON TR. Geez Paul. Nov 9, 2013
Paul Jensen  
 
Sorry for the delay in posting the topo for this route, but for a long time I didn't realise there was anyplace to post it, and then I couldn't find the topo!
I put this route up in 2002 when my wife and I owned a home on Crystal Springs Rd in Woodfords. Shortly thereafter we moved to Lander WY. I started eyeballing this route in the summer of 2001 while climbing One of These Days with Mark Lilly and Adam Lazeer (Both Teachers at Douglas High School in Minden).
To bolt and work the route I left a jumaring rope hanging from the anchors for about 3 months. Before each session I hauled up the necessary ropes and used the right equipment to safely toprope solo the route. If you have an EXPERIENCED HAND this is a great way to work the route, but I recommend putting duct tape where the rope hangs over the edge below the anchors. If you live in the area this route is a great summer redpoint project at beautiful, uncrowded, cool shady place! Dec 26, 2013
Paul Jensen  
 
Finally got the topo posted for this route - see LIVIN A DREAM for route info. Dec 26, 2013
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
  5.12b
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
  5.12b
Thanks for adding this route. I climbed it a couple years ago without knowing what it was (not on the topo and no one seemed to know anything about it).

It remains one of my more proud onsights. Though the grade is near but not technically above my onsight grade, I thought the climbing itself was sustained not only in difficulty, but in perplexity too. It's very cryptic and hard to read, but that only adds to the climbing which I thought was pretty damn good. There is some flaky rock still, but I hardly noticed.

Nice to finally know what it's called. Dec 26, 2013
Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA
Justin Johnsen   Sacramento, CA  
Merging Patrick's and Paul's page and content onto a single route, thanks for the info guys. Jun 27, 2014
Short Fall Sean
Flagstaff, AZ
Short Fall Sean   Flagstaff, AZ
Killer route!! It's a little grainy still, but as stated above, the climbing is so fun that it doesn't even matter. If you like thin face climbing you've got to give this one a go. It seems crazy at first as the moves are not obvious, but I found it revealed itself fairly quickly. In a few goes it went from "What the f&*$!?" to "Oh yeah, I could do this," and then in a few more goes I sent. Aug 5, 2016
almostrad
Lake Tahoe
almostrad   Lake Tahoe
Absolutely beautiful route. This thing would have a line at the base if it were elsewhere.

There is also a (somewhat spicy) direct start to the route, that joins right under the start of the dihedral. The gear is good but dies out higher up. Could be decent with some cleaning. Jan 9, 2017
Matt Carroll  
 
Thanks for putting this up Paul! Super fun movement, sharp crimps and plenty of deceptive moves. So stoked to RP this. a worth while route to anyone who dabbles in the grade, very safe. Aug 3, 2017

More About Livin' A Dream

Printer-Friendly