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Routes in 4 - Second Alcove

Ears to You T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I Be Jammin' T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Just Face It T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
O.U.L.D. T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Quoia the Destroya T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walking Jack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Paul Tiesla, Dan Kennedy
Page Views: 1,755 total, 18/month
Shared By: Ryan Curry on Jan 12, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

With a combination of thin, balancy crack climbing, featured slab and exposed knob pulling O.U.L.D. is a climb not to be missed.
The fun, bolted 5.9 slab warms you up and leads to the shallow corner that makes for the crux of the climb. Utilizing small cams and wires (RP's helpful but not necessary) carefully work your way up the beautiful tips/finger crack to a rest. Shake out and continue straight up the finger crack past some small bushes. Move left to a left trending flake peppered with knobs and pull onto the ledge to a three bolt rap station.
O.U.L.D. is an acronym for Only Users Lose Drugs.

Location

O.U.L.D. is found at the center of the 2nd alcove to the left of We Be Jammin', right of Walking Jack. An obvious line.

Protection

Thin pro is required. Small wires, doubles of cams from 3/8" to 2" and one 3" and 4" cam are helpful.
Bring draws for the bolted slab at the start.

Photos

jpvandever
San Francisco, CA
 
jpvandever   San Francisco, CA
 
the left trending flake mentioned in the description is hard to see from the ground, but it's up there. did 2 raps to get down the avoid downclimbing Oct 15, 2017
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
 
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
 
This is a 'must-send' for 5.10 leaders!! Bolted slab to techy fingers to sweet hands to exposed Tahoe knob climbing... It has it all. We were able to rap from the anchor to almost the base (easy ramp downclimb at that point) with a 70m. Otherwise, there was an intermediate rap anchor climbers right which you can see from the base of the climb. Dec 1, 2013
Weston L
Summerlin, NV
  5.10c/d
Weston L   Summerlin, NV
  5.10c/d
Very fun! Engaging and entertaining indeed. Feb 22, 2013
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
The thin crack is the money! Engaging, technical climbing awaits you with face moves and finger locks aplenty. The rock quality is good on this crack so I felt alright about the micro cams that protect much of this section. Jan 24, 2011
One of the first routes I helped establish at The Woodfords... it got the ball rolling. Woodfords, the area that keeps on giving. Milt Jan 13, 2010