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Routes in 4 - Second Alcove

Ears to You T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I Be Jammin' T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Just Face It T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
O.U.L.D. T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Quoia the Destroya T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walking Jack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mark Bauer, et al
Page Views: 1,441 total, 13/month
Shared By: Ryan Curry on Feb 24, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Offering a brief section of fists and big-fists (off-width for wee folk), Walking Jack may leave you feeling like you've been kicked in the leg. For those accustomed to wide cracks there is a second, thinner crux awaiting them high on the route. Rarely led, despite excellent protection, this climb is often top-roped after leading Whisker Biscuit.

Location

Walking Jack faces east and is located about 40 ft. right of Whisker Biscuit. Look for a 3.5" crack leading towards a large wedged block about 30' up.

Protection

Doubles of 1/2" through 3" including one 3.5" piece. Stoppers are also useful.

Photos

Weston L
Summerlin, NV
  5.10c
Weston L   Summerlin, NV
  5.10c
Fun climb, probably closer to .10c. Can use a 5 maybe 6 on it, 2 4's are very useful. Flared hands crux is tough. Quality route, the block is disconcerting...not sure it feels like it's gonna go, but definitely don't protect around it. Climbing is easy there anyway. Feb 22, 2013
Laine Christman
Reno, NV
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
No matter how many times I climb this, that wedged block unnerves me. Feb 4, 2013
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.10d
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.10d
You could even bring a 5" or 6" piece to protect the brief offwidth, but the 3.5" friend and 4" camalot I brought were sufficient. I found the crux to be the overhanging thin hands over a bulge just above the o-dub. There are some cool face-type shenanigans up higher. This is yet another quality Woodfords route. Jan 24, 2011
Ryan Curry  
 
Agreed, Milt. I changed the grade accordingly. Mar 8, 2010
Sand-bagged for the onsight lead. It's more like 5.10d or 5.11a. Jan 18, 2010
Rick D
Reno, NV
 
Rick D   Reno, NV
 
Good climb. The second crux kept trying to spit me out. Watch out right after the crux hands section. There is a block thats wedged in the crack. I used it to pull on, but it sounds pretty hollow. I personally avoided placing in gear in that six feet. Apr 3, 2009