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Routes in 4 - Second Alcove

Ears to You T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I Be Jammin' T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Just Face It T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
O.U.L.D. T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Quoia the Destroya T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walking Jack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dan Kennedy, et. al.
Page Views: 2,256 total, 23/month
Shared By: Ryan Curry on Nov 22, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Named after an especially fierce dog named Sequoia, this climb is tame in comparison. What appears from the ground to be a skin-eating offwidth replete with loose blocks is actually an enjoyable outing on mostly solid rock. After an opening moves crux that serves up the only mandatory OW moves on the pitch, Quoia the Destroya offers fun, steep moves on solidly wedged flakes. After about 50' make an exposed move left under the bulge (blue camalot helpful) and follow the left-leaning crack to a ledge and the anchor for I Be Jammin'.

Location

Quoia the Destroya starts immediately to the right of I Be Jammin'. Look for the wide crack behind the pine tree. Please be mindful of the erosion prone base to this route and pitch in by moving rocks and helping to stabilize the area. Thanks!

Protection

A single set of cams from 1/2" to 4". A #5 and #6 Camalot are optional for those uncomfortable with a little distance between pieces.

Photos

anthony.
Mountain View, CA
 
anthony.   Mountain View, CA
 
Very fun route! Crux is at the overhanging hand/fist crack to gain the upper left-leaning chimney. A #3 would protect the crux move well. Brought a #5 and a #6 but ended up only using the #5. Nov 13, 2017
Patrick Mulligan  
  5.9
Very cool route. Climbs better than in looks from below. While much of the flakes ring hollow, its all solid. #6 is not necessary. Oct 29, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
What a fun route! Typical of Woodfords climbing, a little of a lot of different techniques is used to ascend. The weather being a real crapshoot (emphasis on crap), we hiked up in a drizzle and climbed this in a nice little downpour. So, my sense of protection requirements on this route is a bit skewed. I did bring up and place a #5 Camalot, but I'm pretty sure I'd have been comfortable going without in normal conditions sans wet lichen, etc.. Still, something in the 4" range is nice.

I loved the overhanging hand section going under the bulge, can't wait to repeat this in dry conditions! Jun 6, 2011
Ryan Curry  
 
I climbed this route again a few days ago with some friends and we cleaned it up a bit. The questionable horn came off with a few kicks. The flake it was attached to moves quite a bit, but is wedged in such a way that we couldn't get it out. A bit unnerving but actually pretty solid. Dec 23, 2009
Sasha Cohen
South Lake Tahoe CA
Sasha Cohen   South Lake Tahoe CA
Wow this climb really does destroy ya! But it's gooood! Thanks Dan!!! Dec 11, 2009
This excellent climbs leans deceptively to the left about 2/3rds of the way up, so be especially careful to protect for the follower after each hard move. Both a #5 and a #6 camelot, although not necessarily needed for lead protection, are very valuable to prevent the follower from swinging off the climb and into the corner to the left. Also a #2 camelot is needed as a directional at the top before traversing to the anchor use a long runner to prevent rope drag. Nov 24, 2009
Ryan Curry  
 
I brought both a #5 and #6 Camalot when I led this. I did place the #6 at the exposed section at the base of the left-leaning crack, but determined that, for me, I wouldn't haul up the big stuff again as there are other gear options to be had.
Also, there is some looseness up high after the bulge, but once again it is easily avoided and will probably be cleaned up after a few ascents. Just take care and use common sense. Nov 22, 2009