Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Ryan Curry and Mark Bauer
Page Views: 255 total · 3/month
Shared By: Ryan Curry on Jun 7, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is an alternate, and easier, start to Ears To You. It offers fun, well-protected face climbing and a direct passage to the "Ear".
Start with bouldery moves on good edges in flakey rock. Although the surrounding rock is a bit chossy the holds are solid horizontal intrusions (iron-diorite?) and bomber. Place a good small cam and climb up to improving rock via intriguing moves. Another small cam placement in an overlap protects face moves that lead to a bolt. Clip the bolt and move up to the base of the "Ear". Finish on Ears To You.

Location

Find Just Face It about twenty feet to the left of Ears to You. The start is marked by two (very) thin horizontal bands of dark rock. Look for a cairn at the base.

Protection

Two small cams (purple metolius) protect the first 15'-20'. The dihedral up higher takes wires and cams to 4". A single set should suffice for most. Two bolt anchor with chains.

Photos

Lurker
Truckee, CA
  5.11a
Lurker   Truckee, CA  
  5.11a
This thing doesn't look like much but climbs really well. Super varied and a bit of spice. The bottom protects decently with a few small cams (purple/grey metolius). Apr 8, 2018